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Mike, the lever not staying in place while the gun is open is probably not a big deal. Most likely it just needs to be cleaned, there isn't alot to break in there.
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Mike,
Are you looking for a collector's piece or great shooter? The following is for considering a great shooter. If the barrels have not been cut (see other threads for instructions on how to evaluate), the screws are not damaged, and all else is in good condition, the price is fair to good. A note of caution is that if the bores are perfect it might be wise to check the barrel thickness. Light barrel pitting can be removed by reaming or honing. This of course reduces the thickness of the barrel walls. Providing the barrels are still thick enough the gun will be shootable. Modern loads? This is at your own risk but many of us do shoot some modern loads in our Parkers. For 99% of my shooting with Parkers, even those with fluid steel barrels, I use low pressure loads. I have however very sparingly shot modern heavy loads, even some with steel shot, in my Damascus Parkers. I have of couse checked the thickness of my barrels and am confident their remaining thickness provides enough barrel strength. The top lever not staying open is likely that whoever last took the gun apart lost the little spring that causes the "trip" to engage to hold the top lever open. This is an easy repair for anyone familiar with disassembly of Parkers. There could however be other problems other than the trip spring. The barrels can be "redone" to remove the blue and restore the Damascus pattern for about $400. Sources for this are Craig Smith of Circle Fly Wads, Brad Bachelder, and several others. Please note that blueing could be covering dents that have been removed. All the more reason to consider an expert evaluation. For $2500 I'd reach out to other PGCA members (please join the PGCA) to help in a evaluation at the gun shop. Of course when you ask for this type of assistance you should be ready to "pull the trigger" if the gun is in great condition and worth the price! With the luggage case which you mentioned, a DH in good condition won't last long at the asking price. You might ask the gun shop for a 3 day inspection period. If granted rush it to someone who can properly inspect a Parker. This of course is my opinion for what it may be worth. Other's opinions may be different. Last edited by Mark Ouellette; 11-26-2010 at 07:36 AM.. |
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Since the barrels have been blued, make sure they have not been hot-blued. If there is a small hole drilled in the underrib, be careful. Hot-blueing will compromise the solder.
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Aaaah. Another confessed member of the "M" club. You are the tenth so far, Mark, along with me of course. Last edited by Bruce Day; 11-26-2010 at 09:47 AM.. |
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Hello Mike ,Unless I missed it you haven't mentioned what gauge this Parker is ,if it happens to be a 20 Gauge or smaller ,there is a substantial difference in the value between the 12 Ga., and the Smaller Gauge guns ! Pictures of the end of the barrel by the Bead would be helpful in determining if the barrels have been cut or are original also ! There are many things in these old guns we collect that make up the value of them ! I n the pic. you posted the gun looks like a nice gun ,as in a previous post a day or so ago ,I mentioned a 16 Ga. D Grade I had purchased which had been blued and after sending it out to have the bluing removed and the barrels refinished ,it proved to need to have the Top Rib Relaid ,probably because of the bluing job ! Brad Bachelder did the barrels for me and the relaying did add some cost ,but it wasn't drastic and made the gun safe and solid to shoot ! Best of luck on your new gun ,if you decide to but it ,you will surely enjoy it ! Russ
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