leather stock protector damage

[Tom Flanigan]

Here is how I would address that stock……..I would very lightly sand the whole stock so that the color is the same. I would then fill the open pores with the mud method using multiple iterations of tung oil as a pore filler. It should take about three iterations. Then you can finish up with Timberlux wiping down each iteration with a clean cotton cloth building microscopic layers till you get the look you want. I would probably do the same to the forend so that all matches.

[Dean Freeman]

Originally Posted by Tom Flanigan

Here is how I would address that stock……..I would very lightly sand the whole stock so that the color is the same. I would then fill the open pores with the mud method using multiple iterations of tung oil as a pore filler. It should take about three iterations. Then you can finish up with Timberlux wiping down each iteration with a clean cotton cloth building microscopic layers till you get the look you want. I would probably do the same to the forend so that all matches.

Tom, et al,

How do you deal with avoiding checkering when using this method on the forend, or the stock for that matter? Is the idea to avoid the checkering all together, or is this done only when re-chasing or re-checkering is intended? I'd love to hear some thoughts. Obviously very fine sandpaper is used, but I can't imagine using any sandpaper and not doing some damage to the checkering. My assumption here would simply be to take great care to avoid checkering at all costs.

Best,
Dean

[Tom Flanigan]

Originally Posted by Dean Freeman

Tom, et al,

How do you deal with avoiding checkering when using this method on the forend, or the stock for that matter? Is the idea to avoid the checkering all together, or is this done only when re-chasing or re-checkering is intended? I'd love to hear some thoughts. Obviously very fine sandpaper is used, but I can't imagine using any sandpaper and not doing some damage to the checkering. My assumption here would simply be to take great care to avoid checkering at all costs.

Best,
Dean

I'll tell you my method and you can decide whether you want to try it yourself. I carefully avoid the checkering when light sanding. Then I use the mud method and when the pores are filled, I finish up with Tru-Oil or you can use Timberluxe if you choose. I then carefully tape off the area around the checkering with duck tape. Some finish will inevitably get into the checkering no matter how careful you are. I then very carefully spread finish remover on the checkering being very careful. I let it sit for 5 minutes and then take an old tooth brush and remove the finish in the checkering working in both directions of the checkering. When this is done I strip off the duck tape carefully. This will also remove old dirt from the checkering. Then brushing in a very light coat of finish on the checkering will protect it and make it the same color as the stock. Be careful to go lightly. If any finish gets on the stock just wipe if off with a clean cotton cloth. The very thin layer of finish brushed into the cleaned checkering will sink into the wood.

Before I brush finish into the checkering, I’ll deepen the checkering if needed and work on the mullered borders. The border usually has the most wear. But this last step should only be done by those well versed and experienced in checkering Parkers. Otherwise, the checkering should be left alone.