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#3 | ||||||
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You owe it to the bird to shoot it hard with enough shot to kill it at the distance you decide to shoot. I'm sure you can figure out what that distance is, but just remember, pheasants are tough and can carry lead. Unless you want to feed scavengers, make sure you either shoot close with a cylinder bored 20 or not at all. I always count the birds that I knock down and don't find as part of my bag limit. It hurts to cripple a bird as noble as Mr. Rooster.
And I still recommend track shoes and a dog that breaks at the shot.
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"Doubtless the good Lord could have made a better game bird than bobwhite, and better country to hunt him in...but equally doubtless, he never did." -- Guy de la Valdene (from A Handful of Feathers ) "'I promise you,' he said, 'on my word of honor, I won't die on the opening of the bird season.'" -- Robert Ruark (from The Old Man and the Boy) |
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Garry L Gordon For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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#5 | ||||||
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Table training a new puppy is a real bitch sometimes. However, Kevin has found that table training a cock pheasant is a piece of cake.
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#6 | ||||||
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I have a vh20 with 26in cylinder and mod barrels and adhe 16 with 26 in cylinder and mod chokes. I have shot plenty of preserve pheasants with both of these guns, but I would not take either one of them on a trip to Kansas. I was in Kansas last January in the next to the last week of the Season flushes were few far between and at good distances. I was generally carrying my gh16 choked mod and put full or my 4E Ithika 16 chokedmod/full ,a much better choice for the Prairie
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"How kind it is that most of us will never know when we have fired our last shot"--Nash Buckingham |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Harold Lee Pickens For Your Post: |
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