Parker Double Repair question

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by Chris Travinski

You have to admire a guy for trying! I'm not a gunsmith, but there are many types of flux, sounds like you need to find the right one. Might want to call Brownell's and ask what they would recommend. I hope you have success!

Thanks Chris... I'll call Brownells in the morning. You're probably correct that I might be using the wrong flux. However it is the type that was suggested for the type of silver solder I'm using. BUT, that's not saying much given the problems I am having.

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by Bill Murphy

Sorry, but this job is not for someone who has never done it before or been taught how to do it, face to face. Your customer is not showing the best judgement in protecting his gun from damage.

No need to apologize Bill. I understand why you would think the way you do. I'll have to post pictures of the 1894 Remington I'm restoring for a client. There are several firsts going on with that one. First and foremost is the restoration of the Damascus pattern that was all but invisible when I got it and the new rust blue finish that was also applied. But all of that was done after I had raised all of the barrel dents using my shiny new Hydraulic dent raiser.

Bill I've been gunsmithing for just over a year and that's after finishing a years worth of school which was done through an on-line course at Penn Foster. We have no gunsmiths in my area so I wanted to learn to do all of the things folks needed or wanted done to their firearms without having to ship them across the country. Before I started my business (one year ago) for 8 years I restored and refinished firearms for friends and co-workers. I retired 3 years ago and two years into retirement decided it was time to do something I'd always wanted and opened up my own shop.

Trust me when I say I'll never do anything to compromise a clients firearm! The things I've learned doing restorations over the past several years make doing what I do now almost seem simple. But as I said in the beginning, something new seems to always come in. That is why I love this kind of work.

[Tom]

Just a thought
You need to do your homework on soldering. You are definitely using the wrong flux.
I'm all for jumping in and trying something new or challenging that's pretty much how I learn, but I must say I only do it on my own guns that way if I mess it up it's my problem.
Good luck with your project, Tom

[Bruce Day]

Out here in Fly Over country we just use Liquid Nails on the few old beater Parkers we are able to get.

[Mark Beasland]

Originally Posted by Robert Hanlin

Please forgive me if this has already been addressed in the past "but".... I've got a Parker Double that the locking lug fell out of. It's the piece the forend locks into when re-installed. It appears that this piece was soldered in place but I am having trouble getting solder to flow back even after cleaning all of the surfaces. I'm putting the heat on the same side as the lug but the solder just beads and runs off. I was afraid of applying too much heat but it looks like the beading might be an issue of not enough heat on the area I'm trying to re-solder.

Am I right? Is there a better technique to this repair?

Thanks

You may want to check out Dennis Potter's double gun class or my vintage barrel restoration class.

http://nra.trinidadstate.edu/pdf/2015NRA.pdf

[John Cinkoske]

Are the forend lugs generally silver soldered in place? In my limited experience I have found them soft soldered. Your mileage may vary...

[High Brass]

John has a point. You say "silver solder" . Silver solder is high temp stuff and not correct. A low temp alloy of tin should probably be used. Do some more research and get some advice from gunsmiths who do this type of work. It would bad for your reputation if you trash a set of Parker barrels.

[B. Dudley]

The lugs are NOT silver soldered. They are Wolff soldered using the same solder as the ribs. If you are trying to beat it to the point of getting silver solder to melt, then you have surely discolored he metal to the point of needing re-bluing. And possibly compromised the ribs. But this would not be an issue if they were properly clamped to prevent movement.

[Autumn Daze]

Okay educate me. And Wolff solder is?

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

The lugs are NOT silver soldered. They are Wolff soldered using the same solder as the ribs. If you are trying to beat it to the point of getting silver solder to melt, then you have surely discolored he metal to the point of needing re-bluing. And possibly compromised the ribs. But this would not be an issue if they were properly clamped to prevent movement.

If you read my earlier posting you'll see that I did indeed clamp everything down before applying any heat. I fully intend to re-blue the area around my work. No damage or discoloration has occurred and the ribs have not been compromised.

I would also like to know what Wolff soldering is.