Shotshell Hand loader?

[Stepmac]

I just want to reload a few BP shells to shoot in my GH, but I don't want to go whole hog and by an expensive/complex reloading rig. I want a handloader similar to the old Lee hand loading tool. I see some for sale on E-Bay sometimes, but does any one make a new one? Some sort of resizer, decapper, repriming system and crimper that I can use to reload a box or so shells a year?

I have used the old hammer away rifle/pistol Lee hand loaders for years...over 50 years and for small jobs they are fine.

I see DPI reloading tools, but are they adequate to make a start to finish shotshell?

[William Davis]

Years ago I loaded paper 8 G black powder shells for a fellow that let us hunt on his land. Bought hulls new empty from Dixie Gun Works. Punched out the fired primers with a hand punch & seated new primers with a small nutcracker looking tool the 8 G shotguns owner had. It worked ok just slow and did not re-size the shell. Size is not important if the fired shell fits your chamber crippling if not.

Wads for stacked loads can be pushed in with a dowell I sealed those black powder shells with wax, Crude but it worked.

Today I would recomend buying one or two of the pamplets Ballistic Products sells, One on Black Powder loading another on stacked wad loads. It will give you the basics. You are probably going to have to buy 3 kinds of wads from them anyhow. Nitro over powder Fiber cushion and thin over shot wad. The pamplets cost a couple of bucks each lot of good info for the price. Far as tools you can load without a loader using hand tools but used Mec's gauge specific can be bought off ebay for 75 bucks. Probably cheaper in the long run.

Last tip paper works best Plastic of any kind does not mix well with Black powder, Melts causing a mess,

William

[Stepmac]

Originally Posted by William Davis

Years ago I loaded paper 8 G black powder shells for a fellow that let us hunt on his land. Bought hulls new empty from Dixie Gun Works. Punched out the fired primers with a hand punch & seated new primers with a small nutcracker looking tool the 8 G shotguns owner had. It worked ok just slow and did not re-size the shell. Size is not important if the fired shell fits your chamber crippling if not.

Wads for stacked loads can be pushed in with a dowell I sealed those black powder shells with wax, Crude but it worked.

Today I would recomend buying one or two of the pamplets Ballistic Products sells, One on Black Powder loading another on stacked wad loads. It will give you the basics. You are probably going to have to buy 3 kinds of wads from them anyhow. Nitro over powder Fiber cushion and thin over shot wad. The pamplets cost a couple of bucks each lot of good info for the price. Far as tools you can load without a loader using hand tools but used Mec's gauge specific can be bought off ebay for 75 bucks. Probably cheaper in the long run.

Last tip paper works best Plastic of any kind does not mix well with Black powder, Melts causing a mess,

William

Thanks for the info.

[OH Osthaus]

be careful with BP in modern loaders- plastic parts can generate static charges

or you could watch the auction site for an original set that was meant for the task

these (except for the priming tool) happen to be Parker tools

but sets from many makers in any gauge show up often

[Mike Franzen]

You would be wise to invest in solid brass hulls for low volume black powder loading. I use those sold by Track of the Wolf. They have a complete reloading manual as well that gives you step by step procedures as well as what tools are needed. Tools are easily and cheaply obtained on eBay. Components are easily obtained as well. Once you have your brass hulls you can shoot them and probably never wear them out. Reloading is simple, therapeutic and fu Hope this helps.

[William Davis]

Black Powder and avoiding plastic loaders is a good caution. I load BP 12's on a PW 375 all the way to the powder stage. Skip the loaders powder tube, throw the charge by hand from a Brass Belding & Mull measure. Then throw shot out of the loader and continue as if using smokeless. Safer and avoids messy clean up.

Brass is good, however I load 100 at a time, expensive if brass.

william

[Mike Franzen]

Brass is expensive but the original post says he wants to load a few at a time to shoot. In his case brass will be more cost effective.

[Paul Harm]

I use my Mec 600jr to reload BP. A 46 bushing gives about 75grs of power. I have another one cut off to throw 84grs. My charge bar has the inspection hole to see what bushing your using plugged with a wooden dowel so 94grs can be thrown without any bushing. If you don't have a Mec you can make your own tools. In OH's picture, the wooden dowel on the left has a small metal pin sticking out the end under the knob [ that will pull off ]. It's for depriming. In the past before using the Mec I made my own reloading tools. I put a nail in one end of a dowel, and on another dowel the end was recessed with a Dremal tool to reprime. You'll also need a block to put the shell in when you deprime. It's much easier to find a Lee hand set at a gun show or on E-bay, or the old tool set like OH has. Good luck.

[Stepmac]

Thanks gents. I would love to load brass cases for my BP loads. My GH is in great shape and I've shot it with RST, but I think she would sing with BP. Think I'll get some cases, find a way to deprime and prime them and finger press wads into the cases. I'll squirt a little glue onto the top of the last wad. I'll probably use Elmer's.

I have been shooting and reloading for antique guns since I was a teen. I used a Winchester 1890 tool to reload 45/70's and I still use it! It makes perfect and accurate loads using a 500 grain lead bullet. I shoot them in all kinds of original rifles, trapdoors, Marlin 95's (original), Rolling Blocks and Sharps rifles.

Shooting old guns is my passion. I shoot Navy Colts, a Starr DA, original muzzle loaders and now I want to load up some brass shot shells in my GH and an L.C. Smith.

I very much appreciate you guy's advice.

[Paul Harm]

To deprime you could just put your shell on a board, draw a circle around it, find the center and drill a hole large enough to let the primer drop in to. With a finish nail in the end of a dowel you could deprime. The Magtech brass shells take a small rifle or pistol primer - either will work.