New project: Ithaca crass model

[alcaviglia]

Ah, I feared that we would run into this: yours is a Crass and what I'm using for the tutorial isn't, what I worked on is a Crass and yours isn't, or there exist variations.

Crass Model vs. NIG, perhaps???

I suspect that I am using the same date of manufacture list as you are. I briefly exchanged correspondence with Walt Snyder regarding a factory letter on the shotgun and he did not correct me when I referred to this one as a Crass model (of course, I'm sure we both know what assumption is worth - I never asked him straight away, didn't think to until now). Serial # on this gun is 56889.

I will continue to compile the tutorial, if for no other reason than to finish it.

UPDATE: I scrapped the video idea - too difficult without a second camera and/or an "assistant" to man one of the cameras - it was coming out poorly. Though I did learn about how long-winded I am. I took pictures of every step, save one...timing the locking bolt (I forgot to snap a few while doing that). I'm going back this afternoon to get photos of that operation as the shotgun must be returned to its owner tomorrow evening.

[Bach Melick]

Originally Posted by alcaviglia

I took pictures of every step, save one...timing the locking bolt (I forgot to snap a few while doing that). I'm going back this afternoon to get photos of that operation as the shotgun must be returned to its owner tomorrow evening.

Thanks, Al, that would help a lot. I think these shotguns are similar enough such that your pictorial tutorial will indeed help me in reassembling mine. On my shotgun, I am missing the (48) Trip Spring and (49) Trip Pin, so I would like to know how these two parts interact together in conjunction with the locking bolt...

Also, my shotgun is also missing the (17) Trigger Spring Pin - full length threads and (18) Trigger Spring - wire; I see on the Numrich - Gun Parts Corp website I can order the Trigger Spring Screw, but they no longer have the Trigger Spring available, so in case I need to recreate that, and if you have not already returned the shotgun to its owner, then would you please take detailed photos (with dimensions, as well as possibly spring rate) so I can maybe get a Trigger Spring made somewhere...

[Bach Melick]

Originally Posted by alcaviglia

Ah, I feared that we would run into this: yours is a Crass and what I'm using for the tutorial isn't, what I worked on is a Crass and yours isn't, or there exist variations.

Crass Model vs. NIG, perhaps???

I suspect that I am using the same date of manufacture list as you are. I briefly exchanged correspondence with Walt Snyder regarding a factory letter on the shotgun, and he did not correct me when I referred to this one as a Crass model (of course, I'm sure we both know what assumption is worth - I never asked him straight away, didn't think to until now). Serial # on this gun is 56889.

Based again on THIS LIST, and under the section titled CRASS & NIG MODELS, Ithaca manufactured your s/n 56889 in 1901, right toward the end of that serial number range and before the transition to the LEWIS & NIG MODELS list. So I am going to assume Ithaca changed (improved?) some things along the way and incorporated those design changes into your s/n 56889, which is why some of the parts differ from my own s/n 22665 shotgun...

[alcaviglia]

Originally Posted by Bach Melick

Based again on THIS LIST, and under the section titled CRASS & NIG MODELS, Ithaca manufactured your s/n 56889 in 1901, right toward the end of that serial number range and before the transition to the LEWIS & NIG MODELS list. So I am going to assume Ithaca changed (improved?) some things along the way and incorporated those design changes into your s/n 56889, which is why some of the parts differ from my own s/n 22665 shotgun...

I can buy that there were some changes over that time frame. I would have to look at your shotgun to understand if the difference in the safety mechanism is one of those changes, and/or if it has anything to do with yours being an ejector gun. The safety assembly seems to be the most profound difference.

The difference in the top lever/cam assembly only makes sense as an improvement if you break the lever and have to replace it. Then having it affixed to the cam with a pin will come in handy, but when installing those parts, I would think that the single piece found on yours and Jeff's is much easier. The differences in the top lever assembly will have no impact on the timing of the locking bolt, so that part of the tutorial will still apply to your shotgun in it's entirety.

As for the trigger spring, assuming that it is the same in your shotgun as it is in this one, I don't think you need to have one made. It is just a piece of spring wire for shotgun triggers. As long as it is bent to engage the triggers in their forward positions, there will be no slop. You will need a piece of spring wire approximately 2.5" long that you can work into the proper radius to fit in the channel for it on the trigger plate. Spring wire size is 0.024" which is S.W.G. = 23 or M.W.G. (Piano Wire) = 10.

[Bach Melick]

Originally Posted by alcaviglia

I can buy that there were some changes over that time frame. I would have to look at your shotgun to understand if the difference in the safety mechanism is one of those changes, and/or if it has anything to do with yours being an ejector gun. The safety assembly seems to be the most profound difference.

The difference in the top lever/cam assembly only makes sense as an improvement if you break the lever and have to replace it. Then having it affixed to the cam with a pin will come in handy, but when installing those parts, I would think that the single piece found on yours and Jeff's is much easier. The differences in the top lever assembly will have no impact on the timing of the locking bolt, so that part of the tutorial will still apply to your shotgun in its entirety.

As for the trigger spring, assuming that it is the same in your shotgun as it is in this one, I don't think you need to have one made. It is just a piece of spring wire for shotgun triggers. As long as it is bent to engage the triggers in their forward positions, there will be no slop. You will need a piece of spring wire approximately 2.5" long that you can work into the proper radius to fit in the channel for it on the trigger plate. Spring wire size is 0.024" which is S.W.G. = 23 or M.W.G. (Piano Wire) = 10.

I definitely agree that your tutorial will indeed help me, regardless of the differences in some of the pieces between our respective shotguns.

If you have not yet already returned the shotgun to its owner, then could you please take detailed close-up photos of that trigger spring and the bend(s) to which you are referring? I'll have to look again at home this evening after work to see whether there is a channel in the trigger plate for that... I never noticed (nor knew to look for) it before...