Screw in chokes

[todd allen]

I have Briley's in two SxSs. One, a M-21, which has been a huge plus for all of the hunting I have done with it. IMO, the versatility of that gun has been greatly enhanced with the ability to go from tight, to loose, and back again.
The second one is a circa 1900 H&H Royal Side Lock Ejector. This gun came to me with Cylinder & 8k chokes. I wanted the option to go tighter. (I'm a tight choke guy) In retrospect, I think it was a mistake to put Briley's in the Holland. After about 15 years of hunting with it, I have come to the conclusion that it already had the perfect chokes for it's purpose.
Lately, I am back to shooting Parkers on game birds. My guns all have original chokes, and I'm leaving them alone. The Parker barrel guys spent a lot of time and effort to make those guns perform the way they do, and I am enjoying the fruits of their labor.
With tight chokes, a hit is history, and a miss is a mystery.
Sorry about the ramble, and I know I'm a little off topic, but if the bbls are already chopped, put tubes in them. If they're original, leave them original. Just my opinion, of course.

[J. A. EARLY]

Craig,

You may find that a set of cut barrels will not have enough thickness for even the thin wall tubes. If they were 30s cut down to 26 you are now back into where the barrels are nearly at their thinnest. Maybe even into the 20 thousandths.

If you find 28s cut to 26, 30s cut to 28, etc. you may get the thin walls in there. What you are probably looking for to get 24" barrels are 26s that have been cut 2". Probably rare.

But if they are .729 I.D. or thereabouts straight bore from end to end after having been cut and with thin wall thickness it will not work. They have to have enough metal to thread them. Long story short: you'll need to know the outside and inside diameter and thickness where they are to be cut and the tubes installed. Otherwise you'll be stuck with a set of cylinder barrels.

Just my opinion (from experience).