What should I do with my Parker

[QUOTE=Jack Cronkhite;11219]I'm like Francis. I will tear down my own stuff and have now played with three rough Parkers, with no end of assistance from the gentlemen on this forum. Galen, you say the hammers won't drop but the triggers will move. Does the rear trigger (left barrel) move far enough to be flush along its full length with the trigger plate? If it does, the hammer should be released. If the hammer is not released, there may be a broken sear spring or broken sear or an issue with the cocking mechanism. (I chose rear trigger because it is much easier to verify extent of movement, i.e., flush to plate than it is with the right trigger) If the trigger only moves a bit but not flush to the plate, then something is interfering with sear release, hammer travel, mainspring travel, mainspring piston cup travel. If the gun has never been opened up, there may be a good likelihood of internal rust seizing the mainspring piston cup, thereby not allowing the mainspring to release its tension. Even when barrels and external metal have been maintained, after a century of time, the internal action components can get into rough operating condition if the action has never seen any servicing, especially if it sits in disuse for decades.

Since you have a nice gun and if you feel hesitant to play, take it to a recommended Parker gunsmith and then enjoy it for years to come. The Parker is a fun shotgun to shoot, especially in the field.

[-- Very imformative Jack-especially the suggestion about using the rear trigger for the "verification"- Two questions then come to mind: (1) If your Parker gun has a single trigger, does it make any difference which barrel is selected? I would guess not, but no harm in asking. (2) You mentioned the mainspring piston cup- Is that the later 1917 era James Hayes revised design style of mainspring? Both the project GHE12 (1904) and the PH 14 (1906) are the older King design that uses the flat leaf mainspring--

You are 200% right about the oil, grease and "crud" factor- The PH released both sears and the hammers fell freely as I started the disassembly process that PGCA Robin has detailed so well for us in the Technical area of our website- instead of leaving the barrels on to do this, as I already knew the mainspring was broken when I bought it, I used a block of soft pine across the face of the receiver- also verifying the firing pins--

The floorplate screws came out easily, and the dowell tap removed the plate- but Mama Mia- black grease and crud prevailed- soak and scrub with toothbrushes and pipe cleaners and Q-tips (ad elbow grease) did the job- I use a 50-50 mix of acetone and Kroil- BUT Never on a assembled gun or forearm iron w/o th wood removed first--

[Autumn Daze]

Francis,In the interest of correct information.All Parker hammerless guns have coil spring mainsprings.The leaf spring was only used on the top lever until the change took place to the coil spring for the top lever.

Leaf spring main springs were used on Parker hammerguns untill the end of hammergun production.

[QUOTE=Dave Suponski;11228]Francis,In the interest of correct information.All Parker hammerless guns have coil spring mainsprings.The leaf spring was only used on the top lever until the change took place to the coil spring for the top lever.

Leaf spring main springs were used on Parker hammerguns untill the end of hammergun production.[-- Dave, was I correct in stating the earlier Parkers, like my two, were the 18 piece King design action, the later post 1917 (aprox) were the Hayes revision?-- I read that years ago in the Peter Johnson Parker book, written aprox. 1960 era- and have come to learn that since then, way more accurate information about our beloved Parkers has come to light--

It sure will be easier to replace the Parker top lever leaf spring than doing same in the main spring in a Smith- I wonder if they staked the locator pin at the rear apex, or if not, how they secured it--So much to learn-- Thanks again

[Autumn Daze]

Francis,Yes your guns would be the King design.