Old Parker - New User

[Bindlestiff]

Glenn,

I suggest you go to the main page at www.parkerguns.org and on the left side there are links, click on "Technical Information" then "Parker Identification" and you will learn a lot of the basics of the meaning of Parker stamp codes & general Parker ID. Take a look at the "Grades" and "FAQ" too, lots to learn there for the new to Parker guy.

[J. A. EARLY]

Glenn,

I don't see that anyone answered your question.

"I can't remove the barrels from the stock and have been told remove the roll pin. (I don't believe this is correct)."

"When I remove the fore end all I can do is cock the gun. The barrels will not separate from the frame."


You are correct to not remove the roll pin screw. Most of the butchered roll pin screws were done that way because the barrels would not come off and they could not figure out what to do, so most times they unsuccessfully tried to remove the roll pin, which is usually difficult or nearly impossible to do.

If it is a non ejector gun, determined by not having a split in the shell lifter, just put 2 snap caps or two spent hulls in the chambers, close it, drop both hammers by firing them, remove the forend, and the barrels should come right off. Let us know if that works for you. It usually does.

Try 0000 steel wool and oil and work on the rusty barrels or better yet get what's called a Frontier pad and work on the rust. But it did look pretty bad so there are probably lots of pits under there.