lash in gun

[Bruce Day]

Calvin, Bob Fabian made a good suggestion. Looseness is either in the hinge, and shimming corrects that, or in the locking lug bite and adding metal corrects that. Now as to the girl with the stuck pot lid, say no more, but maybe Bob has some suggestions. That one is beyond my expertise.

[Labowner]

Run for the camera.

[QUOTE=Bruce Day;10039]Calvin, Bob Fabian made a good suggestion. Looseness is either in the hinge, and shimming corrects that, or in the locking lug bite and adding metal corrects that. Now as to the girl with the stuck pot lid, say no more, but maybe Bob has some suggestions. That one is beyond my expertise. Very interesting post. For our new member Mr. H-- Bruce and Bob and many others here know their Parkers (and other fine guns) from who laid the rail--

I have a machine shop and tool & die welding background, and I would be very cautious about introducing heat (welding ARC- TIG or even Spray) into older hardened steel parts of uncertain metallurgy- unless the area is annealed first (to draw down the developed hardness) As the barrel lug area was most likely brazed, but the barrels are joined to both ribs by solder- and both soldering and brazing are way below the temperature ranges in the HAZ (heat affected zone)- you might end up with a true "job of work" on your hands if things go South-

I would try a file hardness test on a non-bearing area of the lug- if a finish file slides, the area is at least case or surface hard- if it bites the lug and sticks, it is softer--

I like the feeler gauge shims as well-find the one that fits and install it, and write down the thickness of same and the date and keep a few extras like it in the tool box-- that way, as others who know Parkers better than I do have also suggested, you can keep on shooting that fine "Old Reliable" safely.

As to the ladies and the skillets- huum- that saga related here recalls some words of wisdom from my late Grandpa- when I asked him, at age 19 I believe, what the secret was to living with a woman- his reply: "Don't say yes too often and stay the heck outta the kitchen"! Assuming most skillets are housed in the kitchen area initially, perhaps that advice might work for you and your lady who might like to launch one in your direction. Good luck!

[Austin W Hogan]

Before doing anything that moves metal around, remove the barrels and forend. There is one small screw that retains the extractor/ejectors. Remove the screw and the extractor/ejectors ( no need to touch anything in the ejector mechanism, just the lifters recessed into the chamber). Clean the lifters and the passage with Hoppes on a Q tip. Clean the backs of the lifters, and the recesses in the barrels thoroughly.
Clean the locking bite in the locking lug and the barrel flats; look for a grain of powder or a shot swaged into the bite, or onto the flats or onto the water table.
Clean the breech face and the water table of the frame. Use a Hoppes Q tip and a brush to clean the recess in the frame and all the moving parts. Trip the lock release with a dowel or pencil eraser; does it release quickly? does the bolt respond rapidly? Does the bolt extend to the end of the radius in the frame that blends the breech to the water table?
Reassemble the gun and see if the looseness is gone. If not ask someone who knows their business to check the forend iron fit before doing any work on the hinge pin / hook fit. The hinge pin and hook do occassionally cause looseness but pressing the hinge pin out is a very major job; try everything else first.

Best, Austin

Words of wisdom indeed, and thanks Austin. Removal of a hinge pin is not a task for the unskilled- Parker pins have a reversed thread I believe. Off Topic (only as it concerns LC Smiths) but re: hinge pins- The recent Brophy books of LC Smith Specifications and Prints I purchased from fellow PGCA member and friend Angel Cruz- shows the Smith pin to have a slight taper- a press fit, but it also shows a blind dowell pin- does anyone know where on the front of a Smith receiver (R frame or FW, either one) that pin is set- also, the print in the Brophy book does not show the through drilled hole in the hinge pin to take that blind pin?

Just curious, the great thing about our love of doubles, whether they were made in Meriden, Fulton, Ithaca or Syracuse- we never stop learning about them, do we??