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01-09-2017, 01:52 PM
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#23
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Member Info
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 491
Thanks: 152
Thanked 323 Times in 93 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Harlow
I have an article from Brownells written by Guiseppi Forte, Master Engraver. Article number #076-200-388, but it did not come up on their site. I can't scan it at home, but Brownells will probably be glad to send it to you. He list four methods for a gray finish:
1. Hot blue first, then partial removal of blue to achieve gray (using phosphoric acid or 32% hydrochloric acid to do that).
2. Metal left white, treated with nitric acid to achieve gray. (mixed 1 part to 10 or 15 parts water. Then flushed with water, or club soda for a better finish)
3. Metal left white, then abrasive-blasted to achieve gray. Then black printer's ink is applied and baked at 275 for three hours. More methods given.
4. Electroless nickel first, the abrasive-blast to achieve gray.
These are just the titles of the four methods he describes.
That's where I got the idea to use cold blue and then take it down with 0000 steel wool to get the gray finish I desired, on my shiny receiver. The first coats of cold blue are gray, and not blue. I remember warming the metal with a pencil torch before cold bluing.
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Should I Use perma blue or super blue? The pencil torching sounds out of my league.. Is that necessary?
__________________
“The difference between mere killing and a glorious sport is the manner in which you do it – over thrilling dogs, in magnificent country and with a near-reverence for the game. - George Bird Evans
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