Quote:
Originally Posted by alcaviglia
I can buy that there were some changes over that time frame. I would have to look at your shotgun to understand if the difference in the safety mechanism is one of those changes, and/or if it has anything to do with yours being an ejector gun. The safety assembly seems to be the most profound difference.
The difference in the top lever/cam assembly only makes sense as an improvement if you break the lever and have to replace it. Then having it affixed to the cam with a pin will come in handy, but when installing those parts, I would think that the single piece found on yours and Jeff's is much easier. The differences in the top lever assembly will have no impact on the timing of the locking bolt, so that part of the tutorial will still apply to your shotgun in its entirety.
As for the trigger spring, assuming that it is the same in your shotgun as it is in this one, I don't think you need to have one made. It is just a piece of spring wire for shotgun triggers. As long as it is bent to engage the triggers in their forward positions, there will be no slop. You will need a piece of spring wire approximately 2.5" long that you can work into the proper radius to fit in the channel for it on the trigger plate. Spring wire size is 0.024" which is S.W.G. = 23 or M.W.G. (Piano Wire) = 10.
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I definitely agree that your tutorial will indeed help me, regardless of the differences in some of the pieces between our respective shotguns.
If you have not yet already returned the shotgun to its owner, then could you please take detailed close-up photos of that trigger spring and the bend(s) to which you are referring? I'll have to look again at home this evening after work to see whether there is a channel in the trigger plate for that... I never noticed (nor knew to look for) it before...
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