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12-16-2010, 07:21 PM
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Dave: the left hand hammer was broke. Does dry firing cause this or is it true that you can dry fire Parkers without worry. It's a 1922 era gun. Thomas L. Benson Sr.
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12-16-2010, 07:43 PM
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Tom, That is the first time I ever heard of a broken hammer on a hammerless gun. Where did it break? At the tip? I have dry fired my gun's but not allot I use snap cap's..but that is just me. Parker sales literature states that their guns can be dry fired without concern. But steel does weaken with age.
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"Much care is bestowed to make it what the Sportsman needs-a good gun"-Charles Parker |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Suponski For Your Post: |
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Good questions | |
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12-16-2010, 09:24 PM
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Good questions
The hammers are forged and the firing pins (strikers) are part of the forging that is then machined to the finished part. Tom, you mentioned you found the problem, do I assume you have a replacement hammer for your Trojan then? Dave is right about metal fatigue- and also snap caps-
I use A-zoom snap caps as the dummy primers are spring loaded, and give the firing pins something to contact. IMO- snapping down to relieve stored tension on the springs- especially V springs as on my LC Smiths is important. But I have several pre-WW11 Model 12's and a M70- all have been shot a great deal, and I do NOT dry fire to take tension off those coil springs when stored in the Browning Gun Safe. One advantage to a coil spring, if contained, if a slight fracture occurs on either end, it will still function. Break a V-spring as from a sidelock doublegun, and you now have two pieces of potential shim stock- from alloy steel- I use Rem Oil aerosol, but also prefer the clear oil that is used to lubricate the internal pistons of air powered nail guns--for grease I use Lubriplate (lightly) applied with either a toothpick or Q-Tip-- Welding fractured sears and springs is a waste of time- and material- and TIG is not a cheap process. You can re-weld a fracture (depending on location and function of the area of the hammer that broke of course) with TIG, but you should first take a DHP test to determine hardness, and you must anneal before welding, post weld anneal by packing the part in ground charcoal and wrapped in asbestos sacking- then reharden to factory hardness specs. Cheaper to buy a replacement intact hammer-possibly!! |
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12-16-2010, 10:33 PM
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Tom: After the sonic cleaning, I would give all the parts you have removed a nice oil bath (or ballistol if you have) and then wipe them as dry as possible with cotton cloth (old T shirts are a good source). Since you have opened it quite a bit in order to remove a broken hammer, I would completely disassemble the entire action, clean, oil and wipe all parts. I would use light gun grease on the bolts, the main spring plunger and the top lever. There may be other opinions but that is what I would do. Can you post some pictures of the broken hammer? Is the hammer broken or is it the mainspring pin that holds the hammer and the hammer stirrup together that is broken?
Cheers Jack Left Hammer with Hammer Stirrup Three parts here. The hammer and the stirrup are joined by the Mainspring Pin, which appears to be lightly staked. Discretion says not to disassemble, although the pin can be punched out if need be, for example to replace a cracked or broken hammer or stirrup. The last three digits of the serial number are stamped on the inside face. The outside face is smooth. The same applies to the Right Hammer, allowing one to correctly determine left or right hammer in the event of forgetting the correct orientation. The hammer rotates on the hammer screw to the cocked or fired position. There is a cut out on the hammer stirrup that fits approximately 1/4 of the circumference of the hammer screw, which allows for its required movement to stay in place in the mainspring plunger when the mainspring is compressed or extended.
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Hunt ethically. Eat heartily. |
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Jack Cronkhite For Your Post: |
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12-17-2010, 03:01 PM
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Dave/Francis/Jack: The hammer broke right at the area of the hammer screw. I have extra parts so i'm ok in that department. Don't have pictures to show sorry. will use light grease when installing parts. Thanks for the help. Thomas L. Benson sr.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Thomas L. Benson Sr. For Your Post: |
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