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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
Bruce do you find the Timberluxe finish similar to French polish but a better sealer of the wood? How many coats do you use? For the buttplate I too have heard using a dye, just not sure which one.
I find the Timberluxe less temperamental than French Polish and less tendency to streak. I put on several coats with fingertips, using 0000 steel wool between each coat. On the final coat, I rub the finish in hard with my palm , that creates a more satin finish rather than a gloss. I end up with about 5 thin coats.
The downside of French Polish is that being lacquer based, it will cloud with heavy moisture and with rain, the finish can erode. The Timberluxe is waterproof. I hunted for ruffed grouse in MN in light rain and at the end of the day, the finish on a little DHE 20ga was cloudy and worn. It eventually dried out and became clear again, but sometime this winter I will put a topcoat of Timberluxe on it to resolve that problem. The finish works for me and I know some of the big name stockmakers are using it.
On the DHBP, I think will try some RIT dye to see if that works and is more than just a surface treatment.
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Bruce Day For Your Post:
So now I have refinished the stock, cleaned and oiled or greased the action and reassembled. The stock brightened up when the dirt and oil finish was removed. What you see is the result of six thin coats of Timberluxe finish. I glued the few cracks with Super Glue.
I dyed the browned DHBP with Rit dye, and thought it was warm enough when I started to put the buttplate back on the stock, but as you can see, it cracked through the lower screw hole. These old buttplates get brittle as the plasticizers leach out over 100 or more years. Warming them makes them more pliable, but it wasn't enough. I have a new one ordered that is a replica of the original.
What is left to do is to re-brown the barrels to bring out the Damascus pattern. I'll take this gun to Pheasant Fest Feb 14-16 in Milwaukee and after that, the barrels will go off to Dale Edmonds.
The Following User Says Thank You to Bruce Day For Your Post:
Bruce, have you though of repairing that butt plate with Acraglass dyed black? Then dye the whole butt plate black. It may be almost be invisible. What have you got to lose!
I don't know how sturdy it would be. When I was fitting a new recoil pad (without the peak), I used Acraglass dyed black to make the peak. I drilled small holes in the pad, inserted a small length of toothpick in the hard plate of the pad, then filled in with Acraglass. It gave added strength and it's still holding in place. I don't know if you have enough width to do the same to both pieces of the butt plate. Just a suggestion, again, what have you got to lose?
Thanks, Eric, and that is the point I was trying to make. About anybody can do a finish like that. No sandpaper was used except to sand off a little glue overrun, and no loss of detail was caused to the stock. Anybody can do this.