Screw timing, and dings

[C.Maitland]

Hi folks,
First post here. What a great resource this site is. A couple quick question please:

- If one were to replace some abused screws using the replacement screws offered by CSMC, how are they timed correctly and does this usually required a substantial amount of filing to each end of the screw?

- The subject gun is a shooter and I like it. But, it has a pretty good ding right where the fence meets the barrel, and on both the fence and barrel. There are other issues but this ding in particular just bugs me. Who would you recommend to add material here and rework the areas just so they're less unsightly and at reasonable cost?

Any input is appreciated!

[B. Dudley]

First make sure your screws are in the right holes. When looking at the bottom of the gun, the left screw should have no mark on it and the right should have a single hash mark filed in it. The rear screw will either be longer or have an X filed in it.

In regards to the screw fitting. I have fitted many of the Galazan screws, but lately I have just been making them up individually as I need them.
The floor plate screws are the most commonly replaced ones. With the tang screws being right behind them.

If you get the Galazan kit, it will come with 3 floor plate screws. Try all of them until you get one that is as close to timing without work. If it needs more of a turn to go home, chuck the screw up in a drill press and while spinning file material off the underside of the head. Do this a little at a time and keep checking until the screw times correctly.

Then the head of the screw needs to be filed down to profile to meet the plate. The only way to get a PERFECT fit is to take it down to the plate and polish both together, but unless you are re coloring, that can usually not be done. You just have to take it down as close as you can and then do the rest with the screw out of the plate. Checking progress often.
Polish the head nicely and then patina it to match the frame using any number of methods. Vinegar, cold blue, match flame. Whatever works to dull it down and not have it stick out like a sore thumb.

A lot of work. Nut the result is invaluable. Because nothing sours the appearance of a gun than poor screws.

[Kensal Rise]

Knowing the basic process of screw timing is only part of the issue. The rest includes having a turnscrew that is properly ground to fit the slots perfectly. Otherwise you will bugger up the new screws as well. You must also know how to use that turnscrew, and how much torque is necessary to achieve "timing."

Be aware that the Galazan screw heads are often oversize in diameter, and need adjustment in that plane as well.

In addition, the gun you have may require that the screw heads be engraved once they are fit. Plain screws on a gun of higher grade than Trojan do not look correct no matter how well they are timed and given patina.

Finally, the Galazan screws are soft as delivered. The proper job is to harden the screws after they are fit and engraved.

Sorry to add more worry to a seemingly simple job. But doing the job right is the only responsible way to do it. If you are a hobbyist, it's best to have a pro handle this... as well as your troublesome "ding."

Brad Bachelder is very good.

[jeff kropp]

I wish to have some new screws in my BHE. What hardening procedure would be correct for the Galazan screws after fitting and engraving? There is little case-hardening left on the action. Many thanks.

[jeff kropp]

Fellow at Galazan sez their screws are made from cold-rolled steel. He did not think this material could be hardened?

[Kensal Rise]

If you have some experience in using the stuff, Kasen-It from Brownells is worth a try. But it will turn the surface dark, which must be then must be scrubbed down to match your frame patina.

[B. Dudley]

When I make screws, I use brownells fatigue rod. It is commonly used for firing pins as well. It does not need to be tempered or hardened after the part is made.

I have not had a problem with firing pins breaking of screws not holding up when usin this material.

[Kevin McCormack]

Where did the term "timing" or "timed" screws ever come from? I never heard it until about 2-3 years ago, and it seemed to surface only on this site. I think it's a term somebody made up; I was always taught the proper terminology was "qualify", referring to the finishing (of assembly) practice of making sure all screw slots are parallel along a chosen axis (e.g., horizontal or vertical) in a receiver face or similar surface in which one or more screws are oriented to each other to ensure proper slot alignment. In the case of a gun with only one floorplate screw, for example the A.H. Fox, the screw is "qualified" along a butt-to-muzzle axis so that the slot follows this line.

[C.Maitland]

I'd bet you're correct. I used the term timing without much thought. Its use probably goes back to a hands on a clock-face description. Fitted or qualified might be better.

I haven't touched this 16ga. I'm feeling the pull/fighting the urge of sending it off for a degree of restoration.

Thanks for all the input.

[OH Osthaus]

Originally Posted by Kevin McCormack

Where did the term "timing" or "timed" screws ever come from? I never heard it until about 2-3 years ago,

i have heard the term for about as long as I have paid attention to doubles - that's been a couple score of years

nothing new


as to where is comes from - I think early on - it was heard in reference to British guns