A family Parker - Page 6

edgarspencer · 06-20-2013, 10:06 PM

Patrick, I can attest to the success of the acetone/ATF mixture. I mix about 6 oz. at a time and keep it in a sealed pickle jar (I don't think it had to be a pickle jar, but that was the cleanest one I found in the recycling bin) I used some today. mixed months ago. Minimal torque required to break a nut loose, on a steam engine that's been out of doors most of it's 142 years. (See my thread about chores completed in the off-topic forum)

Patrick Hanna · 06-20-2013, 10:14 PM

Well, dang! That's cool, Edgar! Okay...you guys have now persuaded me to mix a batch just on general principle--whether or not this pesky trigger guard soaks itself loose tonight.
I still can't figure out what keeps the acetone from evaporating once you actually use the stuff, but I am convinced it has worked for you guys, so it'll most likely work for me, too.
Thanks, fellas! I'll report back.

wayne goerres · 06-20-2013, 10:35 PM

If it works let me no. I may have to try it.

Dennis · 06-21-2013, 02:09 AM

Is this mixture a floor wax, dessert topping and will it double as moonshine too? I sure wish I lived near some of you gentlemen. I sure learn a lot on this forum and I say that seriously. As my 5 year old granddaughter says when she gets angry at her parents, "I want a new family."

Dennis

Double Lab · 06-21-2013, 06:53 AM

Patrick,
I can't explain why the acetone does'nt evaporate before it's job is done but all I know is it works. Most commercial penetrants are petroleum based and ATF is not only a superb lubricant but a great cleaner as is the acetone. Maybe someone among us has an advanced degree in chemistry and can chime in. I mix the solution and store it in a little plastic bottle called a "Zoom Oiler". They can be found at most commercial refrigeration supply houses and at WW Graingers, which are found in most cities.

Patrick Hanna · 06-24-2013, 07:14 PM

Hi, Guys. I didn't have time to pick up Break Free or Automatic Transmission Fluid over the weekend, but picked those items up over my lunch break today. However, based on your advice, I was inspired to try my own experiment over the weekend. Sunday afternoon, I thinned some Kroil about 50/50 with acetone, and used a small, round artist's paintbrush to fill the threaded shaft with this mixture. I taped over the hole to minimize evaporation of the acetone. Then I painted this mixture on liberally all around the base of the guard strap screw. I let everything soak for 24 hours. Late today, just before mixing up a batch of ATF and acetone, I decided to give it another try. I couldn't figure out how to safely tap anything without marring the delicate edge of the guard strap. So I improvised two clamping cauls: A round one for the inside of the guard, made from a piece of large dowel, and a flat one for the outside. I gently clamped these cauls in a vise grip pliers and then gently applied some counter-clockwise torque. On the second try, the whole thing let go very suddenly, and scared the heck out of me. I quickly confirmed that I had NOT sheared off the guard screw, and everything was okay. Believe me, I offered some quick prayers of thanks over that happy outcome! Anyway, there is no evidence of rust in the screw threads or shaft threads. It looks like hardened old grease to me. I can't be sure if that was the problem, or if the base of the strap was still painted shut with shellac, but it doesn't matter. I think perhaps the addition of the acetone helped. So I didn't get a chance to try the home brewed penetrating mixture you guys recommended nor any Break Free. But I am pretty sure the addition of acetone to the Kroil did something that just wasn't happening previously.
I do want to thank you guys for your suggestions and encouragement. After this assembly is cleaned up, I can move on to the stock inlets. Those don't worry me too much. As a guitar builder, I am very familiar with cleaning up wood messes--including French polish.

wayne goerres · 06-24-2013, 10:31 PM

Great. Glad it turned out for you. Live and learn.

Patrick Hanna · 07-02-2013, 02:28 PM

Hey, Guys, I'd really like to find a replacement butt plate for this gun, but I'm not having any luck. I've shopped all around on the web and found plates for frame sizes 0, 1 and 2. I just spoke with Chris at Vintage Gun Grips, but he was unable to help me. This gun is a size 3 frame, and it has a spurred butt plate--very worn and with the toe broken off. Surely someone must make butt plates for the size 3 frame stock. Can anyone give me a lead? Sure appreciate it.
Patrick

edgarspencer · 07-02-2013, 02:37 PM

Have you taken the old one off? The size number is impressed on the inside. It's probably a #2 butt

Patrick Hanna · 07-02-2013, 06:17 PM

Hi, Edgar. Thanks for your response. Yes, I removed the old plate (It's very worn and about an inch is missing from the toe). It's not marked with a size on the back side. I tried a #2 reproduction plate and it was too short. I sent a tracing of the butt to Vintage Gun Grips. Very nice people there, but they were unable to help. Their longest is nominally 5 & 7/16". Looks like I would need a spur butt plate more in the range of 5 & 9/16" long. I guess I'll have to put the broken plate back on, but everything else cleaned up so nicely I was hoping to find a better plate. The folks at Vintage Gun Grips would take a mold of a plate this size, but mine isn't in good enough condition (even if it were complete) to satisfy their customers. Further, it appears they make a lot of the products sold by other outlets, so I'm just not finding anything larger than 5 & 7/16". For the time being, it looks like I'm stuck.