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#3 | ||||||
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Bruce,
Thanks for the reply. I did not know about the internal hammer's. I have to get started on reading "The Parker Story"! Thanks for the info. Matt |
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#4 | ||||||
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Yes, Parker used to advertise that the hammerless guns could be dry fired with no concern of harming the gun.
The type with the spring loaded brass striking surface are nice. They are less prone to getting beat up by the pin like solid caps are.
__________________
B. Dudley |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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#5 | ||||||
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Thanks Guys.
So if Parker said they were not needed, do most people not use them? I was thinking of ordering a set from Galazan and maybe a velco leather pad to protect the buttplate while I have an order in. Matt |
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#6 | ||||||
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Matt,
When I first got involved with Parkers I bought a set of snap caps from Galazan in every gage. I never use them in any of my Parkers. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Larry Frey For Your Post: |
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Hammerless Dry Firing | ![]() |
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#7 | ||||||
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For what it's worth I broke the hammer on a hammerless D grade 12 gauge while dry firing. It jammed the gun and I had to take it apart to even open the barrel. As said many times on this forum: Never say never. And I don't dry fire without snap caps, anymore. Cheers, Tom
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Tom Carter For Your Post: |
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#8 | ||||||
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I have always used snap caps. It just seems to make more sense to me to dry fire the gun with some resistance at the end of the hammers stroke.Also as previously stated the ejectors are a lot less stressed when firing into a spent shell or snap cap. An ejector gun firing the ejectors against the dolls head stop plate makes me cringe. I guess it boils down to each his own...this has been working for me so I will stay with it....
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"Much care is bestowed to make it what the Sportsman needs-a good gun"-Charles Parker |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Dave Suponski For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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For as long as we have had silicone seal I have made snap caps. Cut a shell to whatever length you want, I make them 1.5" long so they don't "feel" like a shell. Punch out the primer and put some silicone in the primer hole. (the better grade of silicone, re. automotive application stuff will last longer) Let it cure for a few days and trim it off flush with the shell head with a razor blade. It will last a long time and cushion the firing pin well.
Couple of guys at the club seeing mine made some from some Federal hulls that are pink. Think they are breast cancer funding promotion shells. Regards, John Hancock |
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to John Hancock For Your Post: |
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#10 | ||||||
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Maybe I'll skip the snap caps. If they are not needed no sense spending the $ on them.
Thanks guys for the info. |
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