new to 20 gauge reloading

[matt koepnick]

Hey all. I'm getting into loading the 20 gauge for first go round. No issues with my 12 ,28, or 16's. I use the Win AA12 clone wads in both the Win AA and Rem Gun club hulls with great results.
I bought a flat of 20 gauge Gun Clubs since I've noticed my 12-Gun Club hulls are lasting longer with fewer crimp tears than my Win AA's.
From what I've been reading Rem and Win 20's aren't similar and need straight wall vs tapered wad. Also it would appear the more desired factory Rem RXP 20 wad (24344 is new number) isn't readily available.
I'm wondering if I may be more suited to stock up on Win AA's for ease of components availability. .
My powder and primer stock isn't an issue for either of the 2 hull type loads I'm finding. Just questioning reliability of the Win AA wad performance in the Rem hulls. I figured I'd research before spending retirement dough on this new adventure. Thanks
Matt K

[Woodcock survey]

I have loaded cb1078 Claybuster for years in Gun club cases with good results. Have also used their 3/4 oz. wad. The above with Unique a d 20/28. When in run out of those i suppose Longshot will be next. I load the light powder charge recommended with good results and cases do last a long time. I think they make a clone of most popular wads. Good luck!

[Double Lab]

The new AAHS 20's take a straight wall wad. The older AACF and the Remingtons take a tapered wall wad. I'm fortunate in that I have around 5k of the older AACF hulls but I have found the Rem. hulls vary in length so I can't load them in the same batch. I use the 1075-20 wad exclusively with 20/28 and have had no problems with either hull.

[Chris Riley]

I regularly reload 20ga AAHS formerly with Alliant 20/28, now with Hodgdon Longshot, but my FAVORITE 20ga hull to reload is the Remington Premier STS.

[matt koepnick]

So far the Rem Gun Clubs look promising . I had ordered a bag 0f CB1078-20 wads with loader unit, hoping they would work out. I've plenty of Longshot and Unique I had earmarked for our now defunct 16 gauge needs. We have switched her to 20 gauge. It's yet another good reason to purchase another new to me firearm...
It'll be some time before we can empty the case we bought and start our reloading. I will keep watch for more pertinent info from the groups. Many thanks
Mattly

[Mike of the Mountain]

You guys should come here and pick up all the once-fired Remington 20g hulls you can handle! They’re yours for free.

[matt koepnick]

If I have it my way this year, I'll make my first journey to your place up there for some of the festivities and take you up on it. Just have to get the little Mrs. DR stuffs in order this year hopefully by springtime.
Hugs Mattly

[Mike of the Mountain]

You’ll be glad you did Matt!

[Bill Murphy]

After sixty five years of safe and fulfilling reloading, I am confused about straight wall and tapered wads and shells. I have no idea which is which. Is there harm involved in using the wrong type of wad in a shell? What combination would be harmful? What is the harm?

[J.B. Books]

Originally Posted by Bill Murphy

After sixty five years of safe and fulfilling reloading, I am confused about straight wall and tapered wads and shells. I have no idea which is which. Is there harm involved in using the wrong type of wad in a shell? What combination would be harmful? What is the harm?

I believe the biggest potential problem comes from using a wad for a tapered hull in a straight wall hull. I have read that this allows powder to migrate past the wad seal along with a poor seal upon ignition resulting in squib loads. However I have been shooting the newer Federal hulls from the 100 rd boxes sold at Walmart (straight wall hull) using the Claybuster 3/4 ounce wad designed for AA hulls (tapered hull wad). That wad is needed to get a proper crimp with 7/8 oz loads because the of the greater internal capacity of the Fed hull. I have not had any issues with that combination whether skeet shooting or hunting. Your mileage may vary.

On the other hand when using the BP1044 wad in a Federal 10ga (straight wall) hull I would get quite a few squibs. The 1044 wad is undersize and does not provide a good gas seal. The solution has been to put a thin nitro card or plastic gas seal under the wad.

BTW I found you can get excellent results by placing a 12ga wad on top of the BP x10x plastic gas seal. The trick is using a 12ga wad that gives the proper stack height for a good crimp. Patterns were excellent.