Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Romig
Interesting...
How did you remove the water from the wood when the cycle and wipe down were complete?
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It pretty much took care of itself. I rubbed it down with paper towels and the wood was too hot to handle without them. I laid tthem on a rack and let them cool down at room temperature and they were dry to the touch after 15 minutes. Moisture on the back side of the forearm was around 14% this morning. A couple more days in the dry winter heat and they should be good to go.
My guess is that there was not a lot of penetration into the wood interior. The finish offers some protection and water doesn't penetrate very well cross grain.That is the reason gunstock blanks are sealed on the end to slow water loss. I left the forend iron and the steel buttplate on them while they processed and then removed them to dry and oil. I think that 10 to 15 minutes to clean the surface and hydrate the dents came out about optimal. The raising of the dents and compressed wood was the real plus to this. The old finish, gunk and oil ended up as a sloppy sludge in the bottom of the tank and was drained out with the water.
I really doubt there was any serious water uptake. I think the heat hurried along the cleaning and aided the drying. The only thing I was concerned about was if the drying were too rapid in a thin area like the buttstock head. If I try this with another stock I might be tempted to keep the inletted head a little damp until it is completely cool and then be sure the head area dries slowly.
As to the other question, I was a little scared too. However, I was an engineer for 40 years and led a special projects group that was formed to solve unsolveable problems. I guess it is in my nature to think a little differently and take a chance. This gun is a project on which I am doing all the work. If I had caused a split to form, it wouldn't be a catastrophy, just a crack to repair and wouldn't greatly affect the value of the gun. As it stood I was going to have to deoil the head, strip the stock, clean the checkering grooves, steam all the dents and compressions and hope all these processes worked. A lot of time and messy work. In hindsight, 15 minutes in hot water looks like a good deal.
I am not suggesting that anyone stick the stock from an Invincible in the tank, but if you have an old stock you are trying to rehab, you might consider it.