Which looks better?

[24 grams]

I am trying to educate myself as to what constitutes good, better, best.

Am I correct to think that more case color is usually better than less? And deeper, clearer engraving lines are superior to worn and faded lines?

Here are two examples of 12 bore GHEs about 5,000 numbers apart.

8-16-2020 3-01-10 PM.jpg8-16-2020 3-09-02 PM.jpg

8-16-2020 3-00-37 PM.jpg8-16-2020 3-10-23 PM.jpg

All other elements being equal (which they almost never are), which would you choose, and why?

[Wild Skies]

With all things being equal, i.e. grade, gauge, wood, dimensions, etc., it will always be the amount of original case color remaining that will drive value and desireability to most Parker collectors.

[Pa SxS]

Neither gun is in high condition but so what. They both have character and are nice examples of Parker Brothers shotguns. Assuming general overall good condition, I'd fix the buggered screws and enjoy the guns the way they are.

[24 grams]

Originally Posted by Greg Baehman

With all things being equal, i.e. grade, gauge, wood, dimensions, etc., it will always be the amount of original case color remaining that will drive value and desireability to most Parker collectors.

That's what I thought. It would be interesting to see how different people ranked the factors in order of importance, such as, for me it might be:

a) grade ($ budget)
b) gauge (also a budget item)
c) barrel length
d) wall thickness
e) frame size
f) stock dimensions
g) mechanical function/integrity
h) wood fit and figure
i) engraving wear
j) case coloring
k) barrel bluing
l) chokes

[TARNATION !!!]

Originally Posted by Steven Groh

a) grade ($ budget)
b) gauge (also a budget item)
c) barrel length
d) wall thickness
e) frame size
f) stock dimensions
g) mechanical function/integrity
h) wood fit and figure
i) engraving wear
j) case coloring
k) barrel bluing
l) chokes

I shoot mine and seldom sell. Not seen as dollar investment but an investment in my own pursuit of happiness. For me the most important from the list is d followed by g. I would add condition and alignment of all visible screw heads. When they are not good then I know the gun has been worked on and not by a knowledgeable professional. After those factors are dealt with the fact the gun is a Parker Bros is enough for me to consider depleting my toy budget. Once I have it I will completely disassemble replace anything broken inside clean lube reassemble and shoot, usually with a view to taking home a wild pheasant. Cheers Jack

[Mike Franzen]

The way you’re question is phrased, which looks best is going to be in the eye of the beholder. Some guys like that honest, well worn look. I really like the look of high grade guns that have been used for their intended purpose. Others only like pristine condition. Given the choice between the 2 guns pictured I’d take gun number 2 every time. Gun number 1 looks like the finished was polished off imho.

[24 grams]

Originally Posted by Mike Franzen

The way you’re question is phrased, which looks best is going to be in the eye of the beholder. Some guys like that honest, well worn look. I really like the look of high grade guns that have been used for their intended purpose. Others only like pristine condition. Given the choice between the 2 guns pictured I’d take gun number 2 every time. Gun number 1 looks like the finished was polished off imho.

Sort of sanitized. In order to remove the warts, they removed the character.

[6pt-Sika]

I could deal with either of them . I 100% prefer original even if the guns less than 30% . Now with that being said the 8 gauge in my care is totally redone , but I doubt if I could’ve afforded another like it that was let’s say 50% or better .

[Mike Franzen]

Originally Posted by Steven Groh

Sort of sanitized. In order to remove the warts, they removed the character.

That’s why most PGCA members will recommend caution about making alterations to the guns. Sometimes it’s necessary to keep the gun functional. Sometimes it’s purely cosmetic. A person can unknowingly reduce the value of a gun because of lack of knowledge / experience. What might seem like a great idea for your gun might backfire. A good policy before doing anything is to post about it here or if you know someone with true expertise talk to them.

[stumpstalker]

Steven:

I can’t argue with your list. But, in my humble opinion, I would say that any listing of the elements between A and L would be considerably modified by the attribute of originality, i.e.,

c) are Barrels of original length?

j) is gun RE-case-colored? (as Greg (WILD SKIES) said).

f) is stock tinkered with, including non-factory pads added after-market?

k) are barrels RE-blued?

l) are chokes opened after-market, and not by the factory?

a) even the issue of Grade relates to originality, should the gun have been up-graded.


To illustrate how kaleidoscopic the process of evaluating these qualities can be, here is a 12-gauge DHE that is apparently all original, but not high-condition. All that should complicate the application of the very relevant features you list.

If collecting criteria were easy, who would bother?