Barrel Wall Thickness Readings

[classicioi]

While following the GH 16 Damascus wall thickness thread I'm curious what kind of wall thickness readings you normally see on O frame 16 ga factory barrels.

If you own or have measured any what have you found the thickness to be ?

Thanks, Karl

[Dean Romig]

I have 5 or 6 Parker 16’s on the 0-frame, some hammer guns and some hammerless. I have a wall thickness gauge but it is undependable IMO so I won’t use it and post any readings.





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[Bill Murphy]

Dean, would you let us know what brand of unreliable wall thickness gauge you are using?

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Bill Murphy

Dean, would you let us know what brand of unreliable wall thickness gauge you are using?

Bill, it is a Brownell’s. In my experience there is too much flex in the rods.

What is the proper recommended way to use it? I have never had luck with consistent readings.

I never had a problem with a Hosford but I don’t own one. My experience with a Hosford has been with the one formerly at the James D. Julia Auction House.


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[edgarspencer]

86,7XX, Damascus, 28" DH,0 frame. .028" MWT Both Bbls.
76,5XX, Damascus, 30" Gr. 2 TL, 0 frame. .026" MWT L, .025"MWT R.
59,XXX, Damascus, 28" Gr.2 TL, 0 frame. .025" MWT Both
Eric, Harold, and Allan can comment of the 26" guns they got from me.
If you want 0 Frame, steel barrel MWT, that's gonna take me a while

[Craig Larter]

I 100% agree with Dean, the gauge from Brownell's is impossible for me to get accurate and repeatable measurements. The rods flex from the slightest pressure in any direction. I use the Galazan wall thickness gauge very heavy and not too portable but accurate and easy to use. Craig

[Jack]

Originally Posted by Craig Larter

I 100% agree with Dean, the gauge from Brownell's is impossible for me to get accurate and repeatable measurements. The rods flex from the slightest pressure in any direction.

I thought it was just me, but I've had the same experience with the Brownell's gauge. Hard to get the same reading twice.

[Randy Roberts]

Personally I would be interested to know what some of these O frame 16 guns measure at the juncture of the chamber and the forcing cone. My apologies to you Karl for my intrusion upon your thread but hopefully you will find this to be useful information to you as well.

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Randy G Roberts

Personally I would be interested to know what some of these O frame 16 guns measure at the juncture of the chamber and the forcing cone.

That is the most critical area to measure on any classic old sxs. That is the area I would have reported if I had a reliable wall thickness gauge.





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[edgarspencer]

Call it a Clymer, Manson, or Brownell, the gauge is the same. Two things are certain: It's a perfectly reliable tool in the hands of someone who knows how to use it, and, There are a lot of people who don't use it correctly.
I like John Hosford new gauge better than the original version. The 'beam' is either an aluminum investment casting, or CNC machined. The old one(original version, with 1" aluminum tube) is just as good.
When I hear people complain about the perceived lack of rigidity of the rods on a Manson gauge, I am almost certain their technique is lacking.

The barrel must be Horizontal! Whether you're fixing the lugs in a soft jaw vice, or someone is holding them on a table edge makes little difference (unless the table is on a thick rug, the backyard, the beach, or some other soft footing.
Hosford's barrel support rod is the best part of his gauge kit (he will sell them separately) as it allows you to easily rotate the barrel to get readings all around.
Hosford's YouTube video on Zeroing, and using his gauge is very good, and the points he makes are equally true if you're using a Manson (Brownell, Clymer, etc) gauge.
The diameter of the rod inserted into the barrel is the same with all gauges, and has to be small enough to get freely into the bore. My Manson gauge came with a 1/2" rod, and 9/16" ball, so it was too big to measure 28 gauge guns. I simply made a new rod, 7/16", with 1/2" ball.
The eyebolt I added to my gauge, like the ring on the Hosford, makes holding both easy, and repeatable.
The other (lower) rod simply holds the dial indicator, and since the dial is on the bottom side, gravity means it flexes to it's same amount each time.
As long as you're paying attention, and don't allow the upper rod (Same true with Hosford) touch the barrel, you'll get steady, and repeatable readings every time.
Initially, I thought Tony's vertical measuring fixture was the cats meow, but quickly realized it's actually easier to influence the rod deflection, and even fussier to get true, and repeatable results.
I've watch lots of people struggling with zeroing the dial on their indicator. Best way (Take it from someone who has a terrible hand tremor) is to hold the gauge between the ring and EXACTLY AT THE BALL, visually observe it's either at zero, or note the reading, Then hold your thumb on the end of the indicator rod, which prevents the dial from deflection, and rotate to zero.
Because of my tremor, When checking ZERO, I suspend the unit between two points, one at the ball, one at the ring.

Note to that Nit Picking fuss budget (Yeah, You know who you are) who spends more time looking at stuff in the background of my pictures, Bite Me! The Maid is on vacation.