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Top lever position
Unread 09-02-2010, 04:57 PM   #1
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Default Top lever position

We frequently see "top lever right of center" in gun advertising. What is the significance of the top lever being slightly left of center on my old VHE 12?
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Unread 09-02-2010, 05:40 PM   #2
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Generally looked upon as an indicator (er?) of use or wear.
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Unread 09-02-2010, 09:30 PM   #3
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But, unless the lever is hanging out at about the 7 o'clock position it's not a big deal. If the gun locks up tight, is on face with no wobble, clunk or wiggle of any sort, the lever, bolt, and its mating surface, the replacable bolt plate, are doing their jobs and a lever being a bit left of center is of no mechanical consequence.
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Unread 09-02-2010, 10:21 PM   #4
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Is the replaceable bolt plate easily replaced?
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Unread 09-02-2010, 10:54 PM   #5
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Actually, it's not. To do so requires a very skilled machinist/gunsmith who can work within 2/1000" and angles of less than 1 degree.
Some say it is easier to weld up and machine the bolt. I have no experience in either except that I had a machinist/gunsmith replace a plate for me once and I am very pleased with the result.
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Unread 09-03-2010, 06:27 AM   #6
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Wow! I have seen the part advertised, but the description did not include anything about actual installation!
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Unread 09-03-2010, 07:07 AM   #7
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Mark, I have replaced one myself with just a couple of files and a vise, it did take some time to fit. The whole peice had to be trimmed up, just go slow, I would guess that is how they did it in the day.
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Unread 09-03-2010, 08:07 AM   #8
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Paul, in my experience the "right of center lever" is an overrated consideration. Left of center is an indication that the Bolt and Boltplate are fully engaged and near or at the maximum service tolerances. In replacing the boltplate it is best to use a surface grinder to get a perfect fit. This usually will not correct an "off face" condition. As Dean said, if the gun is tight, left of center really does not matter.
As a result of use, the greatest wear occurs on the breach faces and the radiused part of the lugs. These surfaces are mild steel and subject to compression. As compression occurs the barrels become loose. The recoil shields and hinge pin are hardened surfaces.
In most cases with a new Double, the barrel flats are not in full contact with the watertable of th reciever. With shooting, the breach face compression will bring these surfaces together. As this occurs, the lever progressively moves to the left.
If your gun is loose or "off face", the best fix is to lazer weld 65 Rockwell stainless steel on the hook of the lugs and refit the barrels.This turns the hook into a hardened surface to mate with the hardened hinge pin. Beware of guns that have been tightened up by any other procedure.

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Bolt Plate
Unread 09-03-2010, 09:50 AM   #9
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Default Bolt Plate

I have often wondered about the real purpose of the bolt plate. It served no purpose on lifter guns, as the lifter cam had huge leverage to open the bolt, and was completely clear of the bolt as it was going forward to lock. I have seen several lifters with brazed on bolt plates; these may be updates for square cut bolt slots.

Many of you have seen my 5 digit VH; I have put at least 15000 rounds through it at skeet and five stand in the last ten years. The lever is smooth and the gun locks tight. It does not have a bolt plate.

I have some higher and lower serial guns with and/or without hammers and with and/or without bolt plates. These have all been shot at least half as often as the 5 digit VH. Most of these operate smoothly and lock tightly. Some of those with bolt plates act a little loose until the forend is fitted.

I do know that I "repaired" two of my own guns that appeared to be "off face" by cleaning powder residue from the bolt bight, cleaning the boltway in the frame and cleaning the ejector/extractor slot.

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