Old Parker Found... Need Guidance

[david schmidt]

I recently found several old guns in my late father-in-laws collection, which included what I believe to be a genuine Parker Brothers shotgun. I’ve been told that it’s a knock-off, and I’ve also been told that it’s a genuine Parker Bros but older than the normal “collectible”. So I’m left very confused on what we really have and the story behind it.

If anyone can provide any insight and/or direct me to someone knowledgeable in Northern Indiana, it would be much appreciated.

The details, I can gather, are:

- Serial number matches on all parts and is B2543.

- What I believe is the grade, above the serial number, is F9R.

- On the underside of one of the barrels, near the bridge, is what may have been a C then some spaces and 11. Above it, closer to the flats is a 3.

- And then on the flats, in much smaller stamp, is J.L.

- The bridge between the barrels, says Parker Bros Makers Meriden Conn Damascus Steel

- There’s a rifled insert running the length of one barrel, with its own ejector, but is easily removed, by removing the threaded brass keeper at the muzzle end. It slides right out.

Please pardon my terminology, if any is incorrect.

Here are some photos…

[Pa SxS]

David,

Yes you have a real Parker Brothers shotgun and looks to be made in 1874. Your Parker is a very early example made before the advent of the recessed hinge pin. It's hard to determine the grade but it is unique that it has damascus barrels which were usually reserved for higher grades. See if you can provide in focus closeups of as much of the receiver as possible. It should be a 12ga with 30" barrels. It could be a very early example of a Quality D grade but I'll let others chime in when you provide more pictures. P.S. Make the pictures as big as possible, closeup, and in focus

[Pa SxS]

Collectability and value are mostly based on condition with the barrels being the most important. If the barrels are bad, it's just a wall hanger. Do the barrels measure 30", are the interior of the barrels pitted, are the ribs between the barrels loose? Sometimes only a qualified gunsmith familiar with vintage guns can tell. Although it's not allowed to advertise guns for sale on this forum, I'm sure you will get advice on what the range of value is once we see some pictures and get info on the barrel condition.

[david schmidt]

The gun does appear to be chambered for 12 gauge. The barrels measure 31.5" from muzzle to breech. Yes there's visible pitting on the interiors of the barrels, but they don't appear to be at all loose.

Here's some more photos:

[Bindlestiff]

Thanks. Interesting Parker.

[david schmidt]

What is more interesting is that nobody new he had it. This gun and a couple rare WWII pistols were just in his closet!

[Austin W Hogan]

Wipe the gun down gently with a soft cloth perhaps dampened with a little mineral spirits. It has nice sharp corners and may retain much more finish than you percieve. Clean the bore with ordinary Hoppes or equivalant, and if you see anything looking like brown rust wipe the spot gently with the damp cleaning patch.
A brown spot on the cleaning patch indicates either some soft rust , old oxidized oil, or old powder residue is on the spot rubbed.
Don't use any anti rust or rust removing oils or polishes. Bluing and the colors from the case hardening process are really just pretty forms of rust and anti rust treatments will remove them as well. Dab some RIG ( now again available) or other gun gease on a soft cloth or piece of fur, and rub down the metal parts. This will protect it from your hands when you examine it.
I have encountered several early lifter Parkers that appearred much like yours. I found that many dark spots that look like rust are really a scale or perhaps a fungus adhering to the surface that is quite soft. A weekly rub down with a Hoppes patch followed by a clean cloth rub down and a fresh application of grease removes these soft deposits without removing metal. I have also cleaned off these deposits with an ultra sonic cleaner, but this requires some dissassembly.
Be patient; don't use abrasives or strong solvents.
I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the appearance of this gun after a gentle cleaning

Best Austin

[Dean Romig]

David, please post pictures of the rifled insert and the threaded keeper as well as the threads at the muzzle. The majority of us have never seen such a setup and it would be very educational to view it in it's disassembled state.

We would also like to see more pictures of the stock from both sides, the buttplate and the forend. The wood looks to be in pretty good shape.

[Bill Murphy]

Price indicates that an early gun with Damascus barrels is posted in the stock books as a D regardless of actual degree of decoration or grade. This appears to be what we would normally call a 0 or 1 grade gun. Very early guns were priced by barrel material and/or quality more than by degree of decoration until above a certain grade.

[Austin W Hogan]

Bill; I think D refers to Dollar Grade, in the era before s/n 6000, when price lists were changing rapidly and frequently. My 3215 ( pictured in both TPS and Serialization..) is pretty clearly a $200 or $250 (5 or6?) grade and my 3291 is pretty clearly a $135 (2) grade but both show as D for dollar. Both have Damascus barrels, but with little similarity. My twist barrel guns in this era show as T.
3215 has been well studied; the photo of it in TPS concludes that it is " the highest grade of the time". I can count 6 lamina in the damascus pattern; in my opinion that is the fore runner of grade 6.
Publication intervals, price lists, mailing speeds, shop operations and shipping dates are not well coordinated in this era; we will probably never determine the intended grade of many of these guns

Best, Austin