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#3 | |||||||
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Quote:
Thank you Robin! I'm afraid though that you are off a digit. The serial # clearly reads: (1)9698. Not as you have it at (1)9689. The number 8 is definately the final number. I have not found direction with a grade of 0 on the Parker website... Any particulars on that grade? |
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| Recovering a Rusted Gun |
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#4 | ||||||
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Sean; Several years ago I recieved some
thoroughly rusted low number Springfields to restore for our local honor guard. I made a metal box and soaked the guns in kerosene for a month or two, which softened the rust. It is difficult to remove a Parker stock without opening the action. I would suggest that you find a container, perhaps a 4 or 6 inch pipe that will allow the barrel and frame to be immersed in kero, without submerging the stock. Remove the fore end, rest the muzzle in the bottom and fill with kero to 1/4 inch below the wood. You might try putting a little penetrating oil into the seams before immersion. Does the lifter button move 1/2 inch? that is necessary to fully unlock the barrel. A proper tap with a rubber mallet may do the trick, but a common rust bond between two metal pieces may be as strong as a weld. Softening the rust may prevent barrel metal from adhering to the frame, or the reverse, when separating the parts. Best, Austin |
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#5 | ||||||
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#6 | ||||||
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Start with penetrating oil on the hinge, top lever, screws, etc. and let that soak in thoroughly. Try to open after a few hours. A good soaking of Hoppes should help loosen the external rust. I assume it's unloaded, but you never know until you can open the action.
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#7 | |||||||
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#8 | ||||||
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19698 is listed as a 10 ga with 30" barrels. Looks like a lot of work. You best get a price on the complete restoration before you do anything. Could be that it would cost more then the gun is worth. Ray
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#9 | ||||||
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Sean: There is a lot you can do. First off, do not touch the screws with anything but hollow ground tips. Wedge screw drivers bugger the heads very easily. I got into a rust bucket like this and am still playing. I purchased a set from Brownells (Magna super set plus the thin set) This was a good purchase.
After soaking enough to remove screws and get the wood off, you can soak parts and dismantle until all is disassembled. A trick I learned off this site was to then soak all the metal in "Gunk" Heavy duty Rad cleaner. I soaked everything for about a month. Most the rust disappeared. I then soaked the cleaned off metal for another month and the finer areas of rust pitting cleaned up although the pits are still there. Good idea to have a competent gunsmith assess shootability. My two bits worth - proper screw driver bits and "Gunk" Regards, Jack
__________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily. |
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#10 | ||||||
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Sean,
Lifter Parkers are a joy to shoot. By the looks of it not much money would change hands for the one you have. I know it is not for sale and I purchased one like it several years ago for about $850.00 and it is my sporting clay Parker as well as a great dove gun. What I am trying to get around to is that your original thought to have a winter projest is a solid one. You have received good advice on a bath of Hoppe's #9 and light work with 0000 steel wool on the surface rust. Any good penitrating oil would work well. Apply around where the barrels join the frame as well as the lifter button in front of the trigger guard bow. Let it sit for a day or so then try to push the lifter button up. A very light tap wih a small plastic hammer might break things loose if not add more penitrating oil and wait it out. I enjoy projects like the one you have undertaken. Kindest, Harry |
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