Ejector problem

[Fishrising (Ben)]

One of my ejectors will not cock. When I try to do it manually it will not remain cocked. Nothing seems to “lock it” in the cocked position. Anything else to try “in the field” before I take it a gunsmith? I can’t put the forearm on when assembling the gun.

[B. Dudley]

It could be one of a few different things. The parker ejector system is not the most simple thing.

If you remove the iron from the metal, it may be evident right away if aomething is damaged. If not, you can install just the iron on the gun and see most of the operationnof the parts and maybe be able to diagnose what is going on.

If the hammer is not cocking by hand right now, you will need to try cocking it while pushing up on the combo seat leg at the same time to get the hammer to catch in the upper notch.

[Fishrising (Ben)]

Thank you! Maybe I’ll remove the iron and see.

[Wild Skies]

I had a similar appearing situation, it turned out to be a broken ejector hammer.

[Fishrising (Ben)]

Thanks all, I just called Mitch Schultz of Gunsmithing Unlimited in Southport, CT. Whom I’ve trusted with a lot of my SxS work, and he said he could do this repair based on what I described to him and some of things you have suggested here and in the Facebook group. I’d much rather drive the hour to him than deal with shipping guns/parts (unless I really had to).

[Dean Weber]

Brian Dudley’s advice in his last paragraph has worked for me every time I have encountered this situation. Further, I have not had to repeat it on the same forend subsequently. Unsure if it was gunk not allowing it to catch in my several circumstances.

I will say it is not the easiest to do without a proper vice, like a pattern maker’s vice to hold the forend.

[Cold Spring]

Ben, even when the f/e iron is removed from the wood you can only see the slides, ejector leaf springs and the two-fingered sear spring. The so-called floating sears are inside and hidden by the sides of the iron, and their engagements with the ejector hammer(s) can't be seen. Choose carefully on Parker ejector repairs, i.e., someone that really knows what he's doing and has parts which are very hard to find. Perhaps your Mr. Schultz is that man but if me I'd ask questions to check his Parker ejector experience beforehand.

[Fishrising (Ben)]

Originally Posted by Frank Srebro

Ben, even when the f/e iron is removed from the wood you can only see the slides and top two-finger spring. The so-called floating sears are hidden by the sides of the iron and their engagements with the ejector hammer(s) can't be seen. Choose carefully on Parker ejector repairs, i.e., someone that really knows what he's doing and has parts which are very hard to find. Perhaps your Mr. Schultz is that man but if me I'd ask questions to check his Parker ejector experience beforehand.

Thanks! I do fully trust Mitch, and I know he has worked on Parkers. Question would be how much Parker ejector work has he done. And he wants to retire in June. Maybe I’ll call Delgrego or one of the other gunsmiths named in a few posts and see what their turn arounds are.

(1) Anyone know of any other gunsmiths in CT or surrounding areas that I could begin a new relationship with? Delgrego is a 3hr drive for me. Would be nice to not have to ship when I need work done.
(2) Would I need to send the whole gun for this repair or just the forearm?

[Bill Murphy]

Don't know if the Del Grego shop is open. Lawrence is addressing health problems and may or may not be available. Mr. Dudley's procedure usually works, probably by dislodging dirt or rust from the sear area.

[Jim McKee]

Louis Rotelli is currently repairing my Parker with similar problems
Louis has my permission to tell about my Parker