Lefever with issues

[TARNATION !!!]

Hi. A friend who knows I can do a full service on Parkers, presented me with a family gun and wondered if I can fix it. It is 1912 built sidelock ejector gun. The issue is that the right trigger does not move. Lots of possibilities. I removed the side plates and opened the barrels and chambered two snap caps. Left trigger fired. Right did not move. Opened the barrels and both snap caps were crisply ejected. Repeated the process while watching the left side internals. Hammer engaged sear and remained in cocked position. Then watched right side. Hammer will not engage the sear so when barrels close the hammer moves to fired position. That’s why the trigger does not move. Several possibilities come to mind - all related to worn parts. Maybe hammer, maybe sear, maybe cocking rod , maybe maybe…. I want to completely disassemble but have zero experience with a Lefever. Don’t know any pitfalls that await me.

So, has anyone got hints, a schematic, disassembly instructions.

I can wing it but prefer to avoid flying springs or a finger owie or other problems a little knowledge could avoid.

Appreciate any help that’s out there.

Thanks
Jack

Top image is the offender with hammer in the fired position when it should be cocked. Bottom shows left side cocked as it should be.

[Mike of the Mountain]

Just looking at the photos the engagement end of your mainspring looks to be "short". It could have been broken at some time and will not engage the sear to hold the hammer.

[Richard Flanders]

Looks like whatever is pushing the hammer to cock it isn't moving it far enough to engage the sear.

[TARNATION !!!]

You got that right Richard. I opened the barrels then gave the right hammer a nudge with a screwdriver and the sear and hammer engaged as normal. Both left and right hammer springs rest in the same position when cocked. Right trigger released the hammer as normal. I guess it will require disassembly, clean lube and find the part that’s a problem.

[B. Dudley]

It sounds like your notches in the hammer are worn and preventing the cocking axle from pushing it back all the way.

[TARNATION !!!]

Thanks for chiming in Brian. I assume you have likely restocked and serviced at least one of these over the years. Any hints on avoidable hazards in a full disassembly. Plan to get into that in a few days. Cheers Jack

[TARNATION !!!]

Been more than a few days but I got into a full disassembly. Learned from a mistake or two should I ever get into one of these again. Approximately half the number of parts compared to a Parker. The most interesting part to me is the self compensating screw that will keep lockup tight, as inevitable wear over time occurs. This pic suggests I could be a hypochondriac but I retain all Rx containers for just such a project.

[TARNATION !!!]

Self compensating screw that mates with barrel lug to keep action tight. What’s not to like about that.

[TARNATION !!!]

A mistake can occur when you are doing something for the first time with no instruction manual or schematic showing all parts. One mistake turned out ok but only by sheer good luck and a 112 years of grunge. I had removed the ejectors and was cleaning the pathway. Grunge was in tight places and was not cooperating. I gave the area a good dose of brake cleaner. Held the barrels over a garbage can while doing that. Back to the work bench to tackle the area with the ever present toothpicks. The grunge was now losing its grip. I noticed what I thought might have been a bit of chaffe flip out of the channel I was working on. I thought that could have been interfering with the ejector rod travel. I picked at it a bit and it was not chaffe. It was a tiny flat spring that exerts a bit of upward pressure on the rods as they slide in and out. The universe was looking out for me on that part.

[Keavin Nelson]

I would agree with Brian, look to either the cocking rod end, and/or the hammer rod notch as it looks worn in the picture. If you need parts Buck Hamlin is a good place to start.