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06-28-2015, 02:50 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Some case colors are more durable than others when it comes to wearing them down or aging them back.
Some things to try is a stainless wire wheel such as one you would use for carding off barrels when bluing. Or handing it heavily with tougher leather gloves. Other chemical methods like Vinegar and bluing remover will also effect/remove case colors. I have found that vinegar is slower in removing case colors than actual bluing remover.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 04:38 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Leather pad, some elbow grease, a six-pack of beer and a couple of baseball games?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jay Gardner For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 04:48 PM | #5 | ||||||
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While this and/or a wire wheel seem like fun, they are NOT the solution. Go to Brownells, order up some SemiChrome polish and use it with discretion over the new color case. You can adjust the intensity if you are careful. And remember to clease out the compound when you're done.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to John Campbell For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 05:11 PM | #6 | ||||||
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Harry, The gun is a D grade and I would just like to weaken the colors enough to make the dogs and a little of the scroll apparent. Brian, I'm reluctant to use chemicals/vinegar unless I could be sure that the color would not be removed completely, and a wire wheel is kinda scary. So I think I may try the elbow grease method. Would a very fine grade of steel wool be to abrasive? Kensal, how does the SemiChrome polish work? Would it remove the colors chemically or is it sort of like a rubbing compound?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Austin J Hawthorne Jr. For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 05:30 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Mr. Hawthorne:
Please accept the wisdom of experience. Use SemiChrome. It's a light paste. Put some on a cloth and rub lightly. Nothing sudden will happen. You have complete control. The longer and harder you rub, the more the colour recedes. Stop when you like the effect. ANY other method will lead to tears. I guarantee. For an illustration of the results, please see my feature in DGJ, Spring 2012. |
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The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to John Campbell For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 05:52 PM | #8 | ||||||
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Well, you asked for different opinions based on experience and there you have it, some different methods all based on exactly that. Take your pick, try them out and use what works best for you.
Whatever you do, I personally recommend removing the trigger plate and trying your hand on some of the surfaces on the underside of it that are hidden by the wood. But then again, some might disagree with this as well, who knows anymore.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
06-28-2015, 11:17 PM | #9 | ||||||
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The LAST thing I would use is something abrasive like steel wool or a wire wheel.
I like the idea of the leather pad and a lot of rubbing. It is an accelerated 'wear' process that your gloved hands would otherwise accomplished over years (and years). |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
06-29-2015, 08:06 AM | #10 | ||||||
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I was hunting ducks on salt water with a very nice VH that was in near 90% condition if not better. When I got home there were a few small speck of rust on the frame. The wise thing to do would be to lightly work the area with 0000 bronze wool and oil. I had the bright idea to use Flitz. It removed the specs of rust just fine along with the case colors. I have been sick over that for 30 plus years.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Harry Collins For Your Post: |
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