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07-25-2014, 12:12 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Thank you Dean. This is most helpful. I have seen some of Mr. Turnbull's work and while it is attractive I have the impression that they are a bit less subdued than the original colors.
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07-25-2014, 01:53 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Doug or Brad, as Dean said, would be the best choices for consistent Parker correct colors.
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B. Dudley |
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07-26-2014, 05:49 PM | #5 | ||||||
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Please keep in mind that simulated colour is only one aspect of the process. Other factors can effect the steel itself and its qualities. For this, and more, I've sworn off re-casing for cosmetic reasons alone. But, if you must have the job done, I prefer Bachelder.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to John Campbell For Your Post: |
07-26-2014, 08:50 PM | #6 | ||||||
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I too have mixed feelings about re-case coloring for cosmetic reasons. I did my first restoration project of an LC Smith 16 gauge Featherweight in 1992. Ohio Color Case Company did a magnificent job of recoloring the receiver but after the gun was completed I was never happy with it. It seemed to have lost it's soul. Now I am considering doing the same to a decent old VH and wonder if I may not have the same feelings. One thing not in question is the worn engraving will get a touch up but I am still up in the air about having the gun re-cased. Thanks to all that have contributed their thoughts and opinions.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Steve Havener For Your Post: |
08-05-2014, 09:07 AM | #7 | ||||||
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In correctly reproducing the colors, I think it is important to properly polish the metal before hardening. This is especially true with lower grades which do not have a lot of engraving covering everything. For example, the gun Dean posted shows this. The high polish is seen through the color. If, on the other hand, your doing maybe a A grade or higher, do don't tend to see the shine because the gun was covered with engraving after being polished. The expert restorers know this and I think its part of the reason their colors look so original.
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08-05-2014, 10:29 AM | #8 | ||||||
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Thank you Ray on my first restoration project the metal to be case colored was wet polished with 600 grit emery and it did achieve that nice translucent appearance. After it was colored it was coated the case colors with clear lacquer as Dr. Gaddy recommended. I couldn't find the product he recommended so I used Testor model airplane builders lacquer thinned 15 to 1 and achieved a beautiful tough transparent protective coating for the colors. That was over 20 years ago and the colors have not yellowed or flaked off.
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08-07-2014, 10:10 AM | #9 | ||||||
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I believe Oscar recommended Behlens Clear Spray Lacquer. There may be more than one variety, can't remember which one he liked.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bill Murphy For Your Post: |
08-07-2014, 10:59 AM | #10 | ||||||
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Yes Bill that is the product Dr. Gaddy recommended. He didn't specify a type so I assumed that there was only one. In addition to not being able to find the Behlens product I have always had a problem with spray on finishes but the Testor clear lacquer diluted to the consistency of water flowed on smoothly using an artists camel hair brush. As I remember I gave the receiver 2 coats and as I stated it has provided great abrasion resistance and has not peeled or yellowed.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Steve Havener For Your Post: |
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