Thoughts anyone?

[James Palmer]

Curious what would cause this type of break. This piece snapped off as ejectors popped. Clearly an amateur repair of a break long ago but I'm curious if anyone has run into this before?

J

[Dean Romig]

That’s going to need a replacement doll’s head extension.





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[James Palmer]

Got one?��

[Dean Romig]

Not an ejector DH extension.





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[Bill Murphy]

Depending on the condition of the rest of the gun, I would saw off the dolls head, install an ejector stop screw through the bottom, fill in the void in the receiver, and go shooting. The stop screw modification is explained in recent posts, probably in the Reproduction subforum. Too bad about the damage.

[Bruce P Bruner]

If you still have the missing piece of Dolls Head could it be correctly welded back in place and the repaired area rust blued back to match? I'm just thinking with modern welding techniques a solid repair would be superior to the previous attempt. Just speculation, though it would be nice to have your shotgun put back together in it's original configuration.

[Jean Swanson]

I would contact Kirk Merrington, it appears as though the doll head extension had rusted internally.
Allan

[Craig Budgeon]

I think the gun was assembled when the damage occurred. Damage to the receiver would indicate the gun being assembled. I believe foreign material became wedged between the left ejector and the retaining plate. Since the mechanic couldn't open the gun and find the problem, he/she decided to apply pressure to the left ejector since it refused to move and decide a ballpeen hammer and punch would do the job. Obviously they were able to remove the barrels after applying force. Enough force was applied to break off the screw head for the retaining plate and destroy the left side of the dollshead. The gun can be totally restored without replacing the dollshead but require an adequate supply of disposible income. Removing the retaining screw would have allowed them to remove the barrels.

[Kevin McCormack]

Originally Posted by Craig Budgeon

I think the gun was assembled when the damage occurred. Damage to the receiver would indicate the gun being assembled. I believe foreign material became wedged between the left ejector and the retaining plate. Since the mechanic couldn't open the gun and find the problem, he/she decided to apply pressure to the left ejector since it refused to move and decide a ballpeen hammer and punch would do the job. Obviously they were able to remove the barrels after applying force. Enough force was applied to break off the screw head for the retaining plate and destroy the left side of the dollshead. The gun can be totally restored without replacing the dollshead but require an adequate supply of disposible income. Removing the retaining screw would have allowed them to remove the barrels.

I don't follow the sequence or logic of this scenario at all. James clearly stated in his OP that the damage occurred when the ejectors tripped. There is no mention of not being able to open the gun or the use of a ball peen hammer (!) and punch (??). What "debris"?

I agree with Alan's observation that the stop plate and retaining screw had previously rusted, thereby weakening considerably. Very clearly another demonstration of the tremendous power of the ejector springs, powering the ejectors against the comparatively fragile stop plate. With no resistance (snap caps, spent shells, a thumb or forefinger) against them, they quickly fatigue and eventually destroy the stop plate and/or retaining screw, In this case, the already compromised doll's head extension was no match for their power.

Bill's suggested repair method makes most sense. In addition, the vacant doll's head well could be filled in and the mating surface to the end of the rib re-engraved, approximating and resembling some of the Parkers we have seen ordered with "no rib extension", some quite pleasing to the eye.

[charlie cleveland]

I would go bill s way of fixing the gun...charlie