G Hammer 16ga 30"

[Bruce Day]

Photos of a western pioneer G Hammer 16ga in restoration. It is an 1885 gun, new cost $80 plus $15 additional for 16ga, total $95.

Original no checkering. The gun has been cared for, cleaned a lot, not abused. Original bores and chokes, with .022 left and .041 left.

A one family ownership gun. One person had difficulty aligning the forend to the barrels and over the years, created a groove in the forend plate from the barrel forend lug. One can also see scratches on the frame arm left table where he had difficulty aligning.

I am still applying finish to the wood. Cracks have been glued and fixed, just a few more steel wool polishing and finish applications. I am using PGCA member Brian Board's Timberluxe finish which I have become a real fan of for its ease of use, water proof finish and lustrous result. www.timberluxe.com

The action has been cleaned, and prior to reassembly, I will apply oil and grease to movement parts.

Photos show the serial numbers on wood and metal components, a mark of factory components. The stock has the 0 mark for correct size.

I will have the barrel inscription and barrel engraving recut. Its been worn down by hand polishing. If this was a high grade gun, I would consider re case coloring, but it is not so I will leave the action as is. Barrels will be re-browned by Dale Edmonds. There are no dents, bulges or pits.

I need advice concerning the DHBP which has turned brown in places. I would like to get the brown out and returned to black.

The 1882 Parker catalog on p. 10 provides a table of Charges to be Used, which for this gun is 1 oz of shot and 2 3/4 to 3 drams of powder , black powder at the time. With that loading, and considering that this gun has strong original thickness barrels and no wood issues, there is no reason why the gun must be used with lesser charges unless I choose to for conservation of shotshell components, lesser recoil for my shoulder, matching the load to the target, etc. We see frequent statements on this forum that these old Damascus guns must be used with light loads, but of course those statements do not come from Parker, and Parker provided us with suggested loads and service load pressures for use of their guns. I will likely use for hunting the Fed loads I have pictured and for targets, I like a 7/8 oz light load.

[OH Osthaus]

nice transformation

[Gunner]

Bruce, Thanks for the nice series of photos of this gun. Regarding the brown in the DHBP, I don't see a photo of it, but I seem to remember reading that the brown is from heat with age. Its probably not on the BP but in it. I would think a dye would be the answer. Maybe a black shoe dye? Someone with actual experience will no doubt give you a precise answer.

For my own education is the "0" on the butt of the stock an ink stamp? Is the chalk SN on the DHBP original from the factory as I believe I have read about in the past. Thank you for your contribution to Parker knowledge.
Erick

[Bruce Day]

An original DHBP will/should have the SN in chalk on the backside.

The stock will/should have a size letter stamped in ink on the butt in order to correspond with the frame size. Stock size corresponding to frame size has implications for people you see on this forum seeking take off stocks to fit on their guns.

I placed a photo of the browning on the DHBP. I think shoe dye would just be a cover and not a correction.

[Opening Day]

Bruce do you find the Timberluxe finish similar to French polish but a better sealer of the wood? How many coats do you use? For the buttplate I too have heard using a dye, just not sure which one.

[Bruce Day]

Originally Posted by Eric Eis

Bruce do you find the Timberluxe finish similar to French polish but a better sealer of the wood? How many coats do you use? For the buttplate I too have heard using a dye, just not sure which one.

I find the Timberluxe less temperamental than French Polish and less tendency to streak. I put on several coats with fingertips, using 0000 steel wool between each coat. On the final coat, I rub the finish in hard with my palm , that creates a more satin finish rather than a gloss. I end up with about 5 thin coats.

The downside of French Polish is that being lacquer based, it will cloud with heavy moisture and with rain, the finish can erode. The Timberluxe is waterproof. I hunted for ruffed grouse in MN in light rain and at the end of the day, the finish on a little DHE 20ga was cloudy and worn. It eventually dried out and became clear again, but sometime this winter I will put a topcoat of Timberluxe on it to resolve that problem. The finish works for me and I know some of the big name stockmakers are using it.

On the DHBP, I think will try some RIT dye to see if that works and is more than just a surface treatment.

[B. Dudley]

Sometimes the brown on the buttplates can be buffed off or at least lightened with Steel wool. However, you run the chance of loosing some detail on the buttplate.

[Gunner]

Bruce, I appreciate your clear explanation of the markings.
My impression, as opposed to knowledge, is that the browning is a change or loss of black pigmentation from the original material and not a reversible material change. A dye that saturates the material rather than painted on would seem to not be merely a cover.
I'll stop here to let someone with actual experience chime in on a solution.

Please let us know your solution when you find it.
Erick

[Pa SxS]

I've used Kiwi black liquid shoe polish on grip caps before. No build up vs a paste shoe polish.

[B. Dudley]

I had a Lefever that I had to put a replacement buttplate on. I used another original buttplate that I had laying around. I had to put more of a bend in it for the stock that I was fitting it to, so I put it in some boiling water quick.
As soon as it went in it turned yellow. So heat def. has something to do with it.