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Unread 10-15-2016, 06:58 PM   #11
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Sounds like old, congealed grease Patrick. Also, and probably more rare, the floor plate may have been very slightly dented, or, pushed upwards. Removing the floor plate, and do a good cleaning, and re-greasing. I still like Lubri-Plate, but use red grease too.
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Unread 10-15-2016, 10:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgarspencer View Post
Sounds like old, congealed grease Patrick. Also, and probably more rare, the floor plate may have been very slightly dented, or, pushed upwards. Removing the floor plate, and do a good cleaning, and re-greasing. I still like Lubri-Plate, but use red grease too.
Sounds like you toted an M-1 or an M-14 at a one point. I confess to having some of those old yellow - capped buttstock grease pots still kicking about in one of the gun boxes to this day.
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Unread 10-16-2016, 01:24 PM   #13
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Problem resolved. Barrels unhook with hammers cocked or dry-fired. Guts of action were in good condition with minimal foreign material. So what was the issue you ask. It was the smallest screw that I think is inside a Parker. It is on the side of the trigger plate and allows the un-hooking slide to travel within prescribed limits. It is discussed in Brian's article. When I opened everything, the un-hooking slide was indeed stuck in its most rearward travel position. I found a jeweler's screwdriver that was the right size for the small screw. I don't think I did much more than start to back out that screw and the un-hooking slide snapped forward. I disassembled and re-lubed everything (lubriplate). When running that small screw back into place, I kept pushing the un-hooking slide to ensure free travel. I then wanted to see what it would take to stop the un-hooking slide and it was not very much more rotation than a properly aligned screw head. Fine tolerances. Must have been over torqued along the way in the history of this gun. Will be trying it out tomorrow for wild pheasants. Cheers, Jack
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Unread 10-16-2016, 02:55 PM   #14
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That screw, if over tightened, can pinch the slide and cause the issue. The screw should be flush with the outside of the plate and allow the slide to move back and forth smoothly.
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Unread 10-16-2016, 04:28 PM   #15
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I just ran into this issue when cleaning and oiling up one of my 3 dog guns that was rather stiff. Somewhere along way while cleaning it and testing the operation it stopped unhooking. Not certain what I did. But it probably had something to do with when I cocked it with out the floor plate on it to see if it was any smoother. Not certain if that did it, but I know it was coming apart fine before I took it apart and that was the only new thing I did to it... Will reference Brian's artivles.
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Unread 10-16-2016, 04:30 PM   #16
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The problem seems to be that it cocks even with the forearm removed....
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Unread 10-16-2016, 04:35 PM   #17
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Then the unhooking slide is stuck.
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Unread 10-16-2016, 05:14 PM   #18
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If v that was the case, wouldn't it unhook right away simply by removing the floor plate and unhooking slide?

Probably not, but just curious?
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Unread 10-16-2016, 05:44 PM   #19
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Unhooking pin has resistance and bounces back, the unhooking slide appears to move as it should.
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Unread 10-16-2016, 06:03 PM   #20
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Hmm it gets interesting. Disassemble it and put it back together with for end on, the barrels will lock up. The problem appears only after cocking the gun? Triggers, hammers, and everything function fine so that is a good thing, but for some reason after cocking the gun even after dropping the hammers the barrels do not unhook?
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