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#3 | ||||||
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But, unless the lever is hanging out at about the 7 o'clock position it's not a big deal. If the gun locks up tight, is on face with no wobble, clunk or wiggle of any sort, the lever, bolt, and its mating surface, the replacable bolt plate, are doing their jobs and a lever being a bit left of center is of no mechanical consequence.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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Is the replaceable bolt plate easily replaced?
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GMC(SW)-USN, Retired 'Earnest Will' 'Desert Shield' 'Desert Storm' 'Southern Watch' |
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#5 | ||||||
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Actually, it's not. To do so requires a very skilled machinist/gunsmith who can work within 2/1000" and angles of less than 1 degree.
Some say it is easier to weld up and machine the bolt. I have no experience in either except that I had a machinist/gunsmith replace a plate for me once and I am very pleased with the result. |
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Wow! I have seen the part advertised, but the description did not include anything about actual installation!
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GMC(SW)-USN, Retired 'Earnest Will' 'Desert Shield' 'Desert Storm' 'Southern Watch' |
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#7 | ||||||
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Mark, I have replaced one myself with just a couple of files and a vise, it did take some time to fit. The whole peice had to be trimmed up, just go slow, I would guess that is how they did it in the day.
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#8 | ||||||
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Paul, in my experience the "right of center lever" is an overrated consideration. Left of center is an indication that the Bolt and Boltplate are fully engaged and near or at the maximum service tolerances. In replacing the boltplate it is best to use a surface grinder to get a perfect fit. This usually will not correct an "off face" condition. As Dean said, if the gun is tight, left of center really does not matter.
As a result of use, the greatest wear occurs on the breach faces and the radiused part of the lugs. These surfaces are mild steel and subject to compression. As compression occurs the barrels become loose. The recoil shields and hinge pin are hardened surfaces. In most cases with a new Double, the barrel flats are not in full contact with the watertable of th reciever. With shooting, the breach face compression will bring these surfaces together. As this occurs, the lever progressively moves to the left. If your gun is loose or "off face", the best fix is to lazer weld 65 Rockwell stainless steel on the hook of the lugs and refit the barrels.This turns the hook into a hardened surface to mate with the hardened hinge pin. Beware of guns that have been tightened up by any other procedure. Brad |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brad Bachelder For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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I have often wondered about the real purpose of the bolt plate. It served no purpose on lifter guns, as the lifter cam had huge leverage to open the bolt, and was completely clear of the bolt as it was going forward to lock. I have seen several lifters with brazed on bolt plates; these may be updates for square cut bolt slots.
Many of you have seen my 5 digit VH; I have put at least 15000 rounds through it at skeet and five stand in the last ten years. The lever is smooth and the gun locks tight. It does not have a bolt plate. I have some higher and lower serial guns with and/or without hammers and with and/or without bolt plates. These have all been shot at least half as often as the 5 digit VH. Most of these operate smoothly and lock tightly. Some of those with bolt plates act a little loose until the forend is fitted. I do know that I "repaired" two of my own guns that appeared to be "off face" by cleaning powder residue from the bolt bight, cleaning the boltway in the frame and cleaning the ejector/extractor slot. Best, Austin |
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