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Help with barrel markings?
Unread 03-12-2017, 11:56 AM   #1
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Gerald Coffee
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Question Help with barrel markings?

I receintly purchased a Parker, 12 GA, SxS and I trying to gather all the information I can on the shotgun. I need a little help identifying the barrel markings. I have consulted numeriious sources, on-line and the book, Parker Gun Identification & Serialization. Unfortunitatley the factory book containing the information for my PARKER is missing. Hopefully some of you collectors may furnish this information.

This is what I have determined so far. Serial # 208240, Mfg. 1924, 12 Ga, #2 frame, PH (1) grade with ejectors (no E stamp), Parker Steel Barrels. 3 PATD dates, 1905-1910 Determined this from marks on water table. 30" barrels, plastic butt plate (dog in field), platic pistol grip cap (Parker Brothers), brass shield inletted into stock.

Here come the source of my questions. On the left barrel is stamped from muzzle to breach; [COLOR="Red"]JG inside an oval,(maybe UG) R K 3 (Remington Repair Code, Nov. 1941, Service Secection Receiced). Can anyone identify this mark?

The right barrel is stamped from muzzle to breach; P inside a circle (Parker Steel Brrels), HT over A, 44(barrel weight). Any help with HT over an A?

The lug is stamped from muzzle to breach, W, 12 (guage), 2 (frame size). What does the W represent?

There is a L stamped into the forearm lug, any ideas?

Also I understand these guns are chambered for 2.5" shells. A 2.75" shell, Fed. no. 7, target load, will chamber and eject and I have fired 2 of them through the gun, with no indication of any problems. Other than getting a chamber casting, is there anyother way to determine chamber size?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Last edited by Gerald Coffee; 03-13-2017 at 02:42 PM.. Reason: up dating
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Unread 03-13-2017, 06:37 AM   #2
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I would suspect that the R and K with 3 belong together and that's a Remington era repair code.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 08:00 AM   #3
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Unread 03-13-2017, 10:07 AM   #4
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Yes that's a Remington repair code. RK3 - you can look it up on our website.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 10:08 AM   #5
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R = November, K = 1941 and the 3 means repaired by Remington.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 02:19 PM   #6
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Thanks a lot. Now if we can just determine the other codes.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 02:36 PM   #7
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HT over A is generally accepted as Heat Treated and Annealed, though 'annealed' may be a misnomer. Alloy steel would normally get a stress relieve cycle after Normalizing (same temps, different cooling rate.)
It's also been speculated that it means 'High Tensile Alloy'. Either would fit I suppose.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 03:41 PM   #8
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Most gunsmiths will have a simple chamber gauge that will measure your chamber length. No need to do a casting.If you want to buy one for yourself,Brownell's has them in stock.
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Unread 03-13-2017, 08:35 PM   #9
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Chamber depth is considered to be the distance between the breech end of the barrels and the joint between the chamber body itself and the forcing cone, which reduces down to bore diameter. This is loosely based on the length of the "Fired" shell. Today, theoretically when the crimp opens on the shell being fired the end would land at the junction of the chamber and cone. Prior to WW-II many companies had the practice of holding the chamber about 1/8 inch shorter than the shell for which it was intended. Fly in the ointment is nominal measurements often differ from actual ones in both chambers and shells. A very good method I have found of measuring chambers without much outlay of cash, and is quite accurate enough for virtually any situation, is a common 6" flexible machinist's scale which you likely have. Hold the barrels with muzzles toward a light source, not necessarily a concentrated one a window is great, while looking into the breech and the cone will be thrown in a shadow. May have to move the barrels around a little until it is distinct. While still looking into the chamber simply slide the scale in until you observe the end coming flush with the shadow line & mark position of breech end with your thumb. Remove and read the scale. I usually repeat this a few times to insure I am getting a consistent reading, but you will be amazed how accurate this can be done. While I own a Galazan chamber gauge, I use this more often than not. The chamber body itself has a taper of about .005" per inch. Sometimes chambers were cut with slightly worn reamers giving a slight undersize chamber. If the chamber is a bit undersize a gauge made to "industry" standards will not go in to the true depth of the chamber. A.H. Fox Gun Co. shotguns are known for having tight chambers. The machinist’s scale method can be more accurate.
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Unread 05-17-2017, 01:28 PM   #10
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How about the "JG" stamp in an oval? I also have this marking on both my VH 12 & 20 ga.
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