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#3 | ||||||
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I agreee with Chuck - Send it to DelGrego.
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#4 | ||||||
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Thank you!!
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#5 | ||||||
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If the fore end fits without a lot of slop on the detached barrel, put it on and push the ejector head. Less risky to slipping off the hammer face and messing up your wood.
Lots of times, general debris gets into the sear slot and keeps the sear from fully locking the hammer. Another common problem is the edge of the sear may have chipped away, or become rounded. Only fix there is stoning or lapping the face square again. Ejectors are tricky and not for the shade tree gunsmith. |
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#6 | ||||||
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Well, the forend will not go back on unless the ejector hammer is locked back. Try a 1/2" wood dowel to push it to lock. This may give you leverage to engage the sear. If that doesn't work professional repair is in order.
Good luck!! Bob Jurewicz |
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#7 | ||||||
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Bob is absolutely correct. Do NOT force anything. And... if you must take the gun to a "gunsmith" please make sure it is one who is well experienced in double guns, highly regarded... and not practicing at the local Gander Mountain.
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#8 | ||||||
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Pushing the hammer back, it should catch on the one sear position in the forend. However, the correct position for a cocked ejector hammer should be with the sear trip in the upward position. So, when pushing the hammer back, you must lift up on the sear to get it to cock correctly. Or, push the hammer back with the forend upside down.
Many ejector forends have been severed by people trying to force on a forend to an I cocked gun or with the ejectors Un cocked. It is the one negative to the Parker ejector system. James Hayes did design an improved ejector system utilizing coil springs that would also install onto an in cocked gun. But sadly, the design never made it into production.
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B. Dudley |
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