Shooter Trojan

[Blue Collar]

I have identified a Trojan S/N 213xxx I know very little about it except that it is a 20ga, 28"?? barrels and the forend is not original. While I understand the collectability of this gun is diminished, what is the consensus of 1) shooting it the way it is if the price is right (I understand everyone will want photos to make a determination but that is not possible). 2) finding a forend that will match? not s/n match but will look appropriate for period and usage.

While I understand that these are questions that are going to produce subjective responses I would like to understand the implications of what I am suggesting. Good idea or bad.

I am new to this forum so give it to me straight. I also realize my question drives toward shootabilty rather than collectability. If this is an inappropriate question or not within the guidelines, moderators please delete and I will look elsewhere for guidance.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[todd allen]

As long as it's safe, shoot it the way it is.

[charlie cleveland]

if gun ius sound and deemed safe to shoot it would be a good shooter..it value would be small even if it had correct forearm...the trogan is a fine made gun but it was made to shoot from day one...would not be worth putting a lot of money in it... charlie

[B. Dudley]

Thanks for asking your question.

In what way is the forend not original? Just the wood, or is the whole iron non matching for some reason? If it is just the wood (ie: an aftermarket beavertail forend or something), that could be corrected by either finding a good used one or having a new one made. Either way, if the replacement part or wook is quality, it would be very difficult for a average observer to tell that it was not original.

And, if all else on the gun is nice, then it would not be all that bad. Trojan 20s make great guns and do have a good amount of value if they are in good condition. Even in rough condition, they still have value.

A lot of these had 2.5" 20g. chambers, so the proper length shell would be recomended for shooting.

If you ge the gun, keep in touch with us on it.

[Blue Collar]

Todd and Charlie, thanks for your quick responses. I have not seen this gun yet but intend to on Friday. As to its' shootability, I believe it to be a very serviceable firearm. Again, that is said sight unseen. The seller is a gun dealer and does significant and reputable gunsmithing in our area and from my conversation with him I believe this gun is ready to take to the field. We are ready to at least take a look.

[Blue Collar]

Brian, thanks for affirming my initial thoughts. I am unsure what part of the forend is not original. My assumption is that the metal components are original and the wood is not. That is on my list of things to discuss tomorrow. He and I talked of finding a replacement forend that was of similar look and use. In your experience is this going to be a difficult find or relatively easy?

On your final point, please educate me on 2.5" chambers. I thought all 20ga shells that were labeled as 2 3/4" were ~2 1/4" unshot and about ~2 5/8" shot. How does this relate into 2.5" chambers? I am always interested to learn something new.

And while I am asking naive questions, how does one figure out what the chamber size is? Is a chamber the only way?

Again, best regards.

[B. Dudley]

Chamber Length is measured from the breech face to the start of the forcing cone. And this should coincide with the length of the FIRED shell or the shell can be sorter. Or a hair longer is ok without adverse effects. If a 20g shell is 2-3/4" then it should be that long when fired. Loaded length does not mean anything.
If your chambers are 2.5" like many Parkers are, that would be a 1/4" difference between the chambers and the shell. For some, this is too much for comfort, others do not mind. I only mentioned it because you should heck it out any know what it is and also know that there are sell manufacturers that make 2.5" shells. Like RST.

Regarding the forend. Having one made for it would certainly be easier than finding a good replacement, but it would be more expensive. But with patience, finding a use don't can be done. If it has a beaver tail on it. That can also be modified to be a correct splinter. MAYBE.

[Blue Collar]

I have some additional information and of course additional questions.

I still am unclear on whether the chambers are 2.5" or 2.75"

The gun has 26" bbls and is choked IC/MOD is this likely, as I see some documentation indicating MOD/FULL was the choking for Trojans. I understand never say never and always.

LOP to front trigger is 13 15/16" which sounds like a standard butt stock

The forend hardware s/n matched to the gun the "block of wood" is just that. So another one will need to be made or found.

I am seeing these guns going for about $2K. Is that a fair ball park value, given no specific condition with which to compare? Said another way, if a gun has been shot and used with reasonable care and attention is a Parker Trojan made in 1925 going to be worth about $2,000 assuming it is shootable? Again, a gun will be worth what someone will pay for it. That is not what I am trying to convey. My question is, is the market of 1920's trojans that have been hunted in the field causing reasonable blemishes worth about $2,000 in today's market?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

[charlie cleveland]

i was asked 2000 for a trogan that was well used but taken care of..in my opinion a trogan 20 ga in average shooting shape will bring 2000.. charlie

[Blue Collar]

Thanks Charlie, that is what I am asking. I just read what I wrote and it sounds like gibberish.

Charlie, what I meant was, you answered the question I was asking and I appreciate your opinion.