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#3 | ||||||
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I took my go to 16 VH rabbit hunting in the rain; same thing happened as the wood turned almost white. The wood was completely dry with no finish to repel the water. Did not show until it got wet. I worked Tru-oil every night in light coats on a small cotton patch into the wood, for about a week. Never took it apart but worked it carefully around all metal. The wood still looks original but now has some protection.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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john if you had not took the dh in the rain you would probably never knew about the stock issues...charlie...
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The Following User Says Thank You to charlie cleveland For Your Post: |
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Charlie - you are correct !
I always thought the stock finish looked pretty darn good...until the rain hit it. |
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Use the D. I'd rather have a great memory of a super hunt with my best gun (say a DHE) than a cheap gun. Life's too short to sweat the small stuff. Let the next gun trustee worry.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff Christie For Your Post: |
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#7 | ||||||
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First let it dry really good but dont place it in dry hot area, because you want it to dry as slow as possible. If it was a lot of water on it then probeably there is some inside too, for that i recommend gunsmiths detail cleaning + oil (not just any gunsmith!) wen dry just soak spots with true oil to seal them and one day it will be good idea to have it all rfinished before its too late.
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#8 | ||||||
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Original Parker finishes were shellac. It will usually wear over time to expose bare wood in spots. Such as around the comb, grip and cheek panels. If the finish is being touched up, you need to make sure that something is used that is similar to the original finish in color and the way it penetrates into the wood. I have found that some finishes, such as tru-oil, can leave the wood with lighter areas that were bare when applied with original finish still on sections of the wood.
Going over ghe stock carefully with denatured alcohol will clean the surface dirt and oil from the wood and also start to soften the slightly remove the original shellac that is left. It will also blend in the edges of the worn areas. It will allow a better surface to start with new finish. Freshening costs of shellac or something like timberluxe can then be applied and worked as needed to finish everything up.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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Another thing after you have finished your stock as Brain said, put a good coat of was on your stock, Johnsons paste wax, good car wax or I use Renaissance wax
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#10 | ||||||
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enlighten by the discussion on stock care.
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