Tongue in cheek question about working on my Parker

[Chaz Doebler]

So Eli Whitney pioneered interchangeable parts in 1801, at what point (if ever) did Parker adapt the practice?

I am working on putting new triggers into a 1912 Trojan, and they don't even close to work as is. A little filing, a little sanding and they are fine, but you would think a trigger would "drop in."

CHAZ

[OH Osthaus]

Its called craftsmanship

if ya want interchangeable buy an 870

[Chaz Doebler]

I had a 1927 LC Smith hammerless field grade with a weak main spring. I also had a spring from a 1905 hammergun. I took the '27 apart, dropped in the spring from the old hammergun, and it was good as new.
CHAZ

[Fishtail]

It's called 'statistical variation'. If you tried the same thing with 5 other LC's the spring might not have fit.

[Dean Romig]

Everything on a Parker Bros. shotgun was machine made but hand fitted and finished.

So... you just hand fitted and finished a set of triggers to your Trojan... just as it should be.

The guys in "that dusty little plant down in Meriden" never complained about it.

[Chaz Doebler]

I just wanted to complain a little. This is one of those projects that has fought me tooth and nail at EVERY turn. It is my own fault, this is the first Parker I ever had apart, and I was probably in over my head, but I am getting there.

I have to admit I got incredibly lucky that I could drop in a new hammer and sear without any fitting. Sear engagement is one thing that I know better than to mess with myself.

I have another hour or so worth of fitting into it, and I have it functioning. I had everything together just one turn loose and it wouldn't function. Tightened up all the screws and it runs like a champ. I still have to go one quarter of a turn on the big screw under the top lever for it to be timed, so I will have to pull it apart and see what is giving me clearance issues.

I also need to make a trigger spring as they appear to be made of unobtainium.

CHAZ

[B. Dudley]

If you have to, put your tang screw in a drill press and file it under the head while spinning. This will allow the screw to be timed. Just go a little at a time until it is right. Given that your gun has been restocked, that is most likely what is causing the screw to not time as it was originally. You don't want to muscle it into place since that is what will cause a messed up screw slot.

If you cannot find a trigger spring or make one right away, don't sweat it. The gun will function without it.

[Dean Romig]

I agree with Brian. Reducing the distance between the upper frame tang and the trigger plate tang will almost always interfere with sear engagement as well as safety function.

[Chaz Doebler]

Back together, functional, and test fired.

For now the top lever screw needs to go one quarter turn farther. I am going to leave it as is until I feel like working the screw a little to line it up.

In the "this gun hates me" department the last thing I did of course was put on the trigger bow, which bound up the rear trigger. I "clearanced" the rear trigger a bit and all is well.

I only have a trigger return spring on the front trigger as the one I made was WAY too wide to fit two springs between the triggers. I used flat spring material and I just can't get it thin enough. I will find some appropriate wire and make one out of that eventually.

I cut the stock to put on the plate today and found that the butt had a whole lot of pitch. I am thinking that straightening that out as well as lowering the comb will tame what I thought was quite a bit of recoil for such a heavy gun, with a fat butt.

As soon as I get a few coats of oil on the old girl I will post some pictures. She sure is pretty, I hope she is worth the trouble.

CHAZ

[B. Dudley]

Glad to hear that all is working well!