Linseed rubbing oil

[Stan Hillis]

The last step of refinishing a gunstock using the Pilkington method of sanding in a mixture of Tung Oil and Spar Varnish is to use a coat of Linseed Rubbing Oil, which he used to sell, with rottenstone. It is no longer available from his old website or from Midway.

Is there any difference between Pilkington's Linseed Rubbing Oil and regular old boiled linseed oil (or is raw linseed oil what was used for gunstock finishing)?

[ArtS]

Stan

The last rotten stone I bought was from Herter's when I was in high school, so can't help much. Rotton stone was always recommended to cut back the gloss to a traditional oil look. I personally prefer the gloss of the finished oil.
A couple of years ago, I tried some of the new generation microfiber ultra sanding pads. They are reuseable non-clogging wet sanding pads that go to, I believe, 8000 grit. (I may be mistaken and they may go to 12000 or so.) When I used them, you could take a sprayed lacquer finish ready for buffing wet sand to any level of gloss you wanted by using progressively higher grits. I would suspect they would be a direct replacement for rottenstone with more latitude in the finish.

I think about all oil finishes are generally just boiled linseed oil. Many(most) have some sort of drying agent. I have always used Truoil simply because it will build faster and dry quicker. In fact, I started years ago buying large bottles, opening them, and then let them set a few years. It gets really thick, is hard to rub out, but goes on in fewer coats and builds a nice soft gloss. Also fills the grain better.

Many custom guitar builders of electrics and acoustics both are moving toward Truoil, which was unheard of just a few years ago. The trend is to saturate with thin epoxy, cut it back to the surface and then go with 8-10 coats of Truoil. The results are stunning.

I never used shellac on guns due to potential water damage, but I have finished several violins with it and the soft glowing look is really nice. I am starting to restore an 1878 lifter and I think I will use some amber resin and French Polish the stock. Luthiers talk about the pains you go through to do it, but when I tried the process, it seemed pretty easy to do. The surface has to be flawless.

[B. Dudley]

If you use linseed oil, make sure to use artists grade linseed oil from an art supply store mixed with a little japan dryer. Not that crap BLO from Home depot.

[mobirdhunter]

There are several artists’ types of linseed oil. I can’t comment on which is best for gun stocks, but cold-pressed is superior for painting. Also, Japan dryer works, but should be used sparingly as too much can cause premature cracking… at least in an oil painting.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks all. I appreciate the replies.

Art, not all oil finishes are actually linseed. The "Classic American Oil Finish" that Pilkington used and promoted is a mixture of 50% pure Tung Oil and 50% water-based spar varnish. This is what, I have been told, Remington used on their very highest grade doubles. It is what I'm using because of it's depth and luster, and superior water resistance to linseed.

In fact, after today consulting with my mentor on this I have decided to not use the linseed oil as a "finish up", but use the same mixture that I sanded it. I can recall having some issues many years ago with water spotting on a gun that had a linseed oil rubbed in finish and he advised me that he had encountered the very same issue.

I have used TruOil for many years but after purchasing a Parker with a sanded in finish of Tung Oil and Spar Varnish I don't think I will go back to TruOil. Just a personal observation and just my experience.

Thanks again for all the replies. I'm kinda figuring this all out as I go, with much outside help.

[ahfoxman]

The addition of a small amount of Venice Turpentine will go a long way to solve any cracking problems, which is a concern when using a formula containing varnish.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks, Tom. There's so much to learn about the different ways to finish gun wood.

So far I like this "Pilkington Method" better than anything I've ever used. The pore filling is so much easier than other ways, and so complete. You can easily control the amount of shine/gloss and have a beautiful low gloss luster, with still so much depth.

[ArtS]

Stan

One final note. I just now needed some Pumice as a filler additive, so I looked for it,and found that it is readily available as a cosmetic material in a couple of grades for skin scrubbing. The 4 grade appears to be the same be the one used for filler.

I also found that rottenstone is a form of pumice with a finer grind. It is sold as rottenstone and also as something called Tripoli abrasive. It is not easy to find, but I ordered some from a link on Etsi at $10 a pound and Luthiers Mercantile (lmii.com) has it on closeout at $7 for 8 oz, part number FPROT.

If you go to this link

https://www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/07...polish-finish/

and read it and the suggested links(the links are much more detailed than the detailed summary)you will find more information than you want to read on French polish, shellac, shellac oil mixes and all the variations.

[Woodcock survey]

Thank you for the link. I have dabbled in french polish on scrap stocks with good results but after reading that i see where i could have better results.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks, Art. I had some 0000 pumice on hand but haven't used it as I was afraid it was coarser than rottenstone. Looking at the just finished stock set, as it final dries, I see some uneven areas of reflection, so I'm thinking a final rubdown with the finish and rottenstone will even it all out.

Again, I appreciate it!