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02-10-2012, 12:10 AM | #3 | ||||||
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Thanks for the quick reply. That was my gut feeling. I am looking forward to working with Turnbull. It was singed for yesterday, but they have not contacted me to respond to my letter of instructions.
Thanks again. |
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02-10-2012, 08:55 AM | #4 | ||||||
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If the frame is original wear with just patina, I would leave it be. If you look at my album of my 12g. Trojan, that gun has new wood. The barrels are nice for being original. And the frame is just original case hardened which is now worn to an even gray/silver patina on the outside and I think it suits the gun just fine.
It is when frames have rust, damage or pits and such that I think that re-coloring might be called for. Especially when next to new wood or bluing.
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B. Dudley |
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02-10-2012, 10:03 PM | #5 | ||||||
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My frame looks very similar to your 12 guage. I am definitely going to leave the metal alone. I also check out your disassembly album and noticed that the innards of the disasembly gun and your project gun look very clean. There is absolutly no rust or pits in my metal, but the inside is pretty dark and looks dirty. Do you have any suggestions for cleaning the inside of the frame and it moving parts? My barrells look great, so I won't be messing with them at all.
I am carefully studying your disassembly pics and am thinking I will try the reassembly instead of giving it to my smith. I spoke to Turnbull today and will be getting a quote for the wood work. I have restored the wood on many guns, but I know nothing about checkering work and decided to leave it to the pros. This one should be done in the next couple of months so I am shopping around for my next Parker project. |
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02-12-2012, 08:18 AM | #6 | ||||||
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The gun in my dissassembly photos is not my Trojan. It is another VH grade. But my trojan is pretty clean too. For cleaning, you can take down as far as the dissassembly instructions go and then even a bit farther. Since the instructions only show as far as getting the stock off. You can remove the safety button and slide, which is just a matter of removing the small pin. And the unhooking slide can be removed from the floor plate. This is held in with a very small screw in the side of the floor plate. You will need an eyeglass screwdriver to get the small screw out. It is just a retianing screw and does not need to be completely removed to get the slide out.
Tip** Do not overtighten this screw when it goes back in. It can prevent the slide from moving freely and cause the gun to not unhook when the forend is off. The screw should be put back in so that it is flush with the side of the floor plate. This unlooking slide can be a common source for gunk and grime buildup. And you can even take the top lever and bolt out too. Your trojan most likely has the coil spring operated top lever (new style). These are easy. Only need to secure the frame in a padded vise and push in on the dimpled end of the spring sleeve. And visa versa on the install. There is also a small retaining screw in the left side of the frame tang. Checkering is difficult if you have not done it before for sure. What does Turnbull get for cutting checkering on your Trojan? The trick to a lower grade gun such as a trojan is simply to not get off track on spacing the lines. Since there is no room for error in this, being that the diamonds are not fully pointed up. That is if you are being correct about it.
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B. Dudley |
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02-12-2012, 09:42 AM | #7 | ||||||
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12 LPI on the Trojans with flat topped diamonds (shallow cuts).
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02-12-2012, 11:58 AM | #8 | ||||||
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Larry:
Do not be too giddy about Turnbull. Inspect the work closely, and understand that their reputation has more than one dimension. |
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Thanks here are of Pics of the metal + my research letter |
02-12-2012, 01:00 PM | #9 | ||||||
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Thanks here are of Pics of the metal + my research letter
Here are some pics of the metal minus the barrells. My barrells are approximately 75% with one very tiny ding that does not showing on inside. The barrells inside are very shiney with no pits at all.
As I said the wood is away at Turnbulls and I will discuss the correct checkering with them before they start the job. I will be happy to let you know what I pay for the checkering and the finish once I approve their quote. I know this is only a Trojan, but I think it is in very good shape and I was always proud to own it even before I knew anything about Parker shotguns. Once I learned what is was I was suprised to find out how much tempered finish was left on the frame. The photos only show the tempering on the forend metal and the water table. I am really glad that I learned enough to leave it alone. I almost had the metal refinished, but retrieved it from my smith before it was sent out. I had a bad feeling that I was doing the wrong thing and after joining this association I called my gunsmith and put the brakes on! This gun was owned by my grandfather and I have babied it since I was a kid (I'm 58 now). I used to love cleaning my father's and grandfather's guns when I was a kid and the parker was one of the one I enjoyed taking apart and lightly cleaning. I will eventually give this gun and many others to my grandson. Enjoy the pics and my research letter. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to LarryAngus For Your Post: |
02-12-2012, 02:36 PM | #10 | ||||||
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did i read the price right in this letter 19.00 dollars....if sothis was heck of a bargain for lc smiths field grade was about 27.00 dont remember the price of the fulton trade name gun...your a lucky person to have their grandfathers gun espically a parker...thanks for showing it.... charlie
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The Following User Says Thank You to charlie cleveland For Your Post: |
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