PR forend issue

[Frank P]

This is my first post here because I just acquired my first Parker, a 28g Repro 2 barrel set. When the barrels are off the frame, the forend attaches easily to either barrel. When the barrels are on the frame, the forend attaches somewhat easily to the 26” set, but on the 28” set it needs a lot of force on the latch to clamp down. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

[Carl G. Bachhuber]

I had a similar problem with my 28 ga. 2 barrel set. The forend fit the 28" barrels well but were a hard fit with the 26's. As I recall I did a little careful file and polish work to the lug on the 26" barrels to get things to go together more easily. There isn't a lot of wood in 28 ga. forend and I don't think it would take much abuse.
C.G.B.

[Bob Jurewicz]

Frank,
What ever you do, Do Not push on the front of the forend when trying to get them to lock into the forend lug. That is how forends break!
Bob Jurewicz

[Frank P]

Originally Posted by Carl G. Bachhuber

I had a similar problem with my 28 ga. 2 barrel set. The forend fit the 28" barrels well but were a hard fit with the 26's. As I recall I did a little careful file and polish work to the lug on the 26" barrels to get things to go together more easily. There isn't a lot of wood in 28 ga. forend and I don't think it would take much abuse.
C.G.B.

That was my first thought. I didn't want to remove metal without some confirmation. I'll just do a little bit of filing at a time on the underside of the lug of the 28" bbls. The force it requires now stresses the forend wood too much.

Thanks for both replies.

[Bob Jurewicz]

Frank,
Specifically, where do you plan to file?
Bob Jurewicz

[Garth Gustafson]

Jack Rowe shows how it’s done in this video. The video is really about tightening the fore end but Jack also shows how to loosen it as well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nuGBOtnDZlY

[B. Dudley]

If the frond installs, then there really is no issue. It should be tight.

But... if it is unfavorable for you and you feel you need to correct it, the forend lug on that set of barrels is what you want to lightly remove material from. DO NOT touch the wood.

[Frank P]

I would think filing a very small amount of metal from under the "nose" of the lug would allow the FE iron to engage the notch more smoothly.

Edit: I filed some metal from the interior notch, not much, but enough that the FE now goes on with a rap with the base of my palm. I think that’s good enough for now as I am not comfortable removing metal or any other non-reversible gun tampering. Also, I can’t complain that those lugs aren’t sufficiently hardened!

[David C Porter]

First you need to determine if the problem is the metal fit or the wood fit.
2. Remove wood & see if the forearm metal will close properly. If it doesn't then remove some metal on the back end of the barrel tab. If the forearm closes properly without the wood on, then the wood is setting too high & interfering with it closing. If that's the case then lamp black the barrel & close forearm slowly & tap to see where lamp black shows on the wood Indicating high spots that will need to be removed. If you're not experienced and/or not comfortable with doing this I'd send it to someone that is experienced in metal & wood fitting. Sometimes if you're not experienced in these areas you can chase a problem & in the end screw the gun up.

[Dean Romig]

I read about "rapping with the base of my hand" and of "tap" but as has been said before, do NOT rap, tap or apply pressure to the forend beyond the latch area. That area has the least amount of wood and can very easily crack or break at that spot.





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