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04-30-2016, 06:34 AM | #3 | ||||||
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Careful Allen - the Trojans were originally checkered in a fairly coarse LPI with flat top diamonds. A used Trojan may appear to have almost worn off checkering but that is often not the case. Look at a high condition original to see what the checkering should look like before starting.
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
04-30-2016, 06:48 AM | #4 | ||||||
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Im sure others will know better ...but personally I would use a 60 degree single line cutter ,and a viener to finish the edges and bottoms ...take your time with lots of breaks if its your first Allen.
Good luck , Chris |
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to chris dawe For Your Post: |
04-30-2016, 11:05 AM | #5 | ||||||
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[QUOTE=chris dawe;194238 ...take your time with lots of breaks if its your first Allen.
[/QUOTE] Chris is quite right. And perhaps not right enough. If you've never done chequering before, and this is your gun, I'd think twice about doing it at all. Frankly, the odds are about 10-to-1 that you will make a very bad mistake. A pro like Chris can do the job perfectly. And probably within your budget. |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to John Campbell For Your Post: |
04-30-2016, 11:19 AM | #6 | |||||||
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Quote:
Chris |
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04-30-2016, 11:38 AM | #7 | ||||||
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Thanks Gents all. Looking at a 16 Trojan w/dolls head that one of our local shops has up for short money. Gun is tight, no dents, bluing mostly gone but no dings. Stock is quite dark and checkering is faint to the eye but could be that stock after de-oiling will show more checkering. forend is in same condition. 26 inch barrels too. good little grouse and woodcock gun after its cleaned up.
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The Following User Says Thank You to allen newell For Your Post: |
04-30-2016, 08:26 PM | #8 | ||||||
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If the lines are left and have some feel to them, a 60 degree cutter is all you need to deepen the lines. Cutting the proper borders requires a separate concave cutting tool in combination with others. Proper border work on a Parker makes all the difference between just checkeing it and checkering it right.
However, heed others advice and proceed with caution if you are considering doing it yourself. Since you do not have tools, i take it you have little to no experience cutting or recutting checkering. Not that anyone cant do it, but some just cannot do it. Why try and find out when you can spend relatively short money and have the work done right. If you insist on trying your hand, pick up a Gunline starter set in 16 lines per inch and spend some time scratching at some junk stocks before trying on something that you want to let out in public.
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B. Dudley |
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04-30-2016, 08:54 PM | #9 | ||||||
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Allen, like you I wanted to give a try at checkering. The first thing that I determined was the lines per inch on the stock. Then I trolled the internet and bought a starter set of Dem-Bart tools. There are lots of sets out there in number of tools and prices. My starter stock was 16LPI and I had trouble finding it. Use the guide that comes in the kit and start on a piece of soft wood to get the feel of cutting before moving on. Start from a baseline and continue to work from it. Buy additional heads so that you have a sharp tool, start slow and don't try to cut the line the complete depth on one pass. I take plenty of breaks because when my hand gets tired I tend to make mistakes. The work that you see posted by others here is not done in 5 minutes. Good checkering to you and hopefully others will chime in with tips and support.
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05-01-2016, 07:04 AM | #10 | ||||||
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Thanks all for the good advice that I shall follow should I decide to pick up this Trojan 16. I carved and made my own decoys for years and I'm familiar with working with wood. I'll take it slow, one step at a time but I know I can do this. Thanks again to all.
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