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05-15-2023, 05:16 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Thanks Greg, Ill try them
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05-15-2023, 06:26 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Allen i have found Greg's # 3 to be very important. I had the same problem with #9 and found that by giving it room to drop free from the tube that cured it.
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05-15-2023, 08:13 PM | #5 | ||||||
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I stick with 9's in the loader and load shot with a dipper for larger shot. a lap full of shot is frustrating!
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05-15-2023, 08:16 PM | #6 | ||||||
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You got that right Ken.
I called MEC and spoke with one of their customer service reps. He recommended Greg's #3. I tried it and it works. |
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05-16-2023, 07:53 AM | #7 | ||||||
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The solution to the problem was given in Frank Srebro's recent post about shot bridging in his 9000 press. The nose of the ram tube is rolled in, to prevent the wad from being pulled back up. Rolling the end of the tube means the inside is also rolled in, (picture a choke) and the shot will bridge at that point. Reaming the inside of the tube eliminates the 'choke' and after that, it makes no difference how high up the tube is when you drop the shot.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post: |
05-16-2023, 08:00 AM | #8 | |||||||
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Quote:
https://parkerguns.org/forums/showth...light=bridging |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Randy G Roberts For Your Post: |
05-17-2023, 05:27 PM | #9 | |||||||
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Quote:
I've been reloading both .410 and 28ga. shells for over four decades on P-W 375 machines, both ram/drop tubes are as they came from the factory, straight and without the noses being rolled over. I can tell you that shot bridging is a whole lot more common occurrence with the .410 than with the 28 -- especially with the larger shot size...maybe your experience differs from mine.
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Wild Skies Since 1951 |
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05-17-2023, 06:33 PM | #10 | ||||||
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While it slows you down a little bit, I raise the handle slightly and tap the drop tube with a screwdriver. That’s been very successful in limiting the problem of bridging.
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