Lifter Restoration

[Sean Harper]

So here is my restoration of an 1880 lifter 10 gauge. You all remember me from the general discussions forum, and have helped me greatly with breaking the gun down. At this point, I have the gun almost entirely pulled appart. I just have to remove the hammer springs and lock plate guts, as well as the hinge guts. I will be soaking all parts, screws included in a de-rusting agent. I have many questions and these questions will come around as I reach certain points in the project. Here are a few pictures to show you all where I'm at.

[Harry Collins]

Sean,

You are off to a great start. I would be reluctant to remove the hinge pin. That involves a press if I'm not mistaken. The locks could very well be cleaned without removing anything. Those two items I would leave well enough alone. I would leave the hammers attached as well. Just do your best with where you are.

Harry

[Sean Harper]

Originally Posted by Harry Collins

Sean,

You are off to a great start. I would be reluctant to remove the hinge pin. That involves a press if I'm not mistaken. The locks could very well be cleaned without removing anything. Those two items I would leave well enough alone. I would leave the hammers attached as well. Just do your best with where you are.

Harry

Harry, I was thinking the same thing actually. I'm not terribly worried that I'll forget how to put it all back together again, but more worried that I'll damage the fine workings somehow. There is quite a bit of rust build-up on the exterior, and a bit of hard scale on the inside. The springs on the locks and screws in there are covered. They do function though, quite well in fact. I'm thinking a bath in a rust romeving agent then spotlessly cleaning everything, then a premium lubricating oil. Again, the springs and mechanisms are in working order, I'm just hoping to remove any possible grime/rust/yucky-stuff that may result in wear and damage further down the road.

The inside appears to be a perfect time-capsule, no noticable previous repairs or even damage from heavy use. It does have quite a bit of rust and grime inside. The only thing I've noticed is two screws with marring on the slot, but the marring is in the direction of installation not removal. So, I'm positive I'm the only one to have opened her up since she was put together at the plant... Pretty cool.

[Austin W Hogan]

I would go along with Harry, and not take down the locks. The hinge pin is pressed in and should not have internal rust. I would suggest an ultrasonic cleaning after a kerosene and nylon brush scrub.

Best, Austin

[Richard Flanders]

There's no good reason to take the hammers off and dismantle the locks if you don't want to. It really helps to have a mainspring vise for the dismantling. Sometimes hammers get rusted on a bit and are fine. Then you take them off and clean them and when they're back on they're loose because you took the rust out and now the screw will constantly loosen back out while you're shooting the gun. I have one like that that I have to peen the square shaft back out on to tighten that particular hammer. I can't seem to stop until I have the hammers off and have never had an issue getting them off but there can be issues...

[Sean Harper]

Richard-My secret hero.

You and Austin and Harry have the right idea. Let me reiterate; I know I could do a fine job getting everything back together, even though I do not have a mainspring vise. But my abilities are not really the point here. Ever since I pulled the first screw I felt that pang of emotion. The "do no harm" feeling. I decided that I would do absolutely nothing that was NOT of critical importance.

Saying this though, my gut tells me to be completely sure that these inner workings are in good shape. My concern is that I will miss some minute bit of metal or grime or rust-flake that will over time damage the mechanism. In other words; my gut is telling me to clean the hell out of it so I can be sure everything works propperly. I believe though that I can accomplish this without completely pulling the parts.

I have included a couple of pictures to show you the state of the left lock plate. The right plate is identical in condition. Notice the buildup of grime and crud. Notice also the amount of rust, this rust does not reomove with a fingernail. My thinking here is to bathe the entire apperatus in a de-rusting agent. Then cleaning with toothpicks and cotton swabs. Then an approprite long term lubricating agent. This is my current plan of attack. What do you folks think?

Enjoying every bit of the debate,
Sean

[Richard Flanders]

That does look a bit rude but with a good soaking and cleaning would be perfectly functional. I think your skill level is plenty adequate if you choose to dismantle it. It looks like you have the hammer cocked so have the main spring compressed almost as far as necessary to remove it. If you use a small crescent wrench to hold it there or the small needle nose vise grips I mentioned before to compress it a bit more then using the crescent wrench to hold it, You could release the hammer and pull the spring.. CAREFULLY as I mentioned before also. Make sure you punch the pin on the outside to loosen it before pulling the spring out. Can't emphasize that enough. Do not pry the spring off the inside of the lock plate. Once the spring is out, the rest is easy. 4 screws + the hammer screw if you choose to try and remove the hammer, and it will all come off the plate making it much easier to clean. To start with I think I'd first soak it and see how clean it comes out. If you have lacquer thinner a soak in that would loosen the oil crud to where a tooth brush would remove it. You're doing great Sean; no need to rush anything at this point. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how good it will look once you clean it. You have the long cold winter ahead of you, right? I know about that....

[Sean Harper]

Greetings all!
It has been a while since my last update on this project. I think a note is in order.

At this point I am only working on woodwork. The stock is in fine shape, just a few small cracks. I will be using a high quality glue/filler for these cracks, which brand I have not decided upon. I will also be applying a wood hardener to the area when the side locks meet the wood and where the barrel mount is in contact with the stock. I will also be applying the hardener to the underside of the fore end grip, this area is a bit soft. Of late; I have been identifying all tiny cracks and splits in the fore end grip. These will be properly glued. I have all parts (except the side locks) completely scrubbed and stripped of all oils. Now they are just a pile of rusted metal bones on my dinning table. Waiting for the rust-removal liquid to arrive from Brownells.

Having gone this far, I now have only a couple pointed and refined questions.

Richard noticed quite wisely that the hammers are cocked on the locking plate as it sits on my table. I recall that I cocked the left plate as I removed it (as you need to cock the left hammer in order to unscrew the locking screw). The right hammer is cocked as well. My question is, how do I un-cock it? I've fiddled with it a bit, and can't seem to release it. I apply direct compression to the small spring at the very end of the plate (the one with the graduated lever attatched) and still the hammer doesn't seem to want to come down. Where do I go from here? Richard noted the "main spring" in his last post, is that the large spring that runs most of the length of the plate?

Thanks again everyone! I've learned so much about this gun. As always I'll keep you all informed with every step I take.

Sean

P.S. Here is a picture of the project as it now stands. I have considered posting it in the January contest forum. This is what MY Parker looks like!

[Labowner]

Sean, go to the top of page and do a search for Acraglas under threads this should bring up a very well done stock repair titled, split stock repair, it is for a hammer less gun but the thread should provide plenty of info on dealing with cracks and punky wood. Best of luck.

[Ben Yarian]

To let hammer down, pull back on the hammer and push up on the back of the sear( the lever that sticks out from the lock on the back side. When it releases gently let the hammer forward. Becareful that it does not jump forward on you.

Ben