1880s Parker Identification and Restoration

[Gray S]

Howdy, I've just recently gotten ahold of this old Parker Bros shotgun from my dad (don't worry he's still alive), and I was hoping to more accurately identify it and hopefully restore it to proper working condition. This is not only my first Parker shotgun, but also the first firearm I have ever owned or cared for so I know very little from firsthand experience.

The serial number is 22119 which puts it all the way back in 1881. Frame size 3 according to the mark on the barrel. It has a 32.75" damascus steel barrel and I *think* it's a 10 gauge. It has external manually pulled hammers. Isn't this one of the Parkers that's old enough that it doesn't have a grade? I didn't see any grade markers on it.

Here are some collages of different parts of the shotgun.

Barrel
https://files.catbox.moe/z5z0f5.jpg

Flat
https://files.catbox.moe/8jqbj7.jpg

Receiver & Stock
https://files.catbox.moe/zol4tg.jpg

From the looks of it, it is in amazing condition given how it's been stored and cared for (not very well) so I have high hopes I can remove all the rust and refinish it. Where should I start first? I know I need to remove all the rust before messing with a new finish since rust trapped beneath the new finish will continue to spread. I think the wood is in good enough condition that I see no reason to bother with trying to get it replaced, though a polishing might be in order.

[Bruce P Bruner]

Gray, your gun is a grade 2, listed in the serialization book as a 10 gauge with 32" barrels. So you don't destroy what you have, consider wiping the metal down with an oiled cloth and just wipe down the wood too. Others here can give you specific instructions. I'm just telling you this because many vintage guns get absolutely wrecked when novice owners think they have to improve the gun, when in reality they ruin them. Aside from mechanical repair they are only original once. Refinished guns have minimal to no interest for me. Of course it's your gun and you can do whatever you want.

[edgarspencer]

Bruce's comments are right on the money.How are the bores? It would appear it was ordered without checkering. All in all, the gun looks to be in reasonably good condition. Don't think 'restore', but just properly clean it up. Breck Gorman can make those barrels pop, and the early damscus barrels have lovely pattern. I would not checker it, as a letter will probably confirm it was ordered sans checkering. If the bores are not horribly pitted, and the walls check out (thickness) it can be back in service. Ducks and Geese, beware!

[Gray S]

Originally Posted by edgarspencer

Bruce's comments are right on the money.How are the bores? It would appear it was ordered without checkering. All in all, the gun looks to be in reasonably good condition. Don't think 'restore', but just properly clean it up. Breck Gorman can make those barrels pop, and the early damscus barrels have lovely pattern. I would not checker it, as a letter will probably confirm it was ordered sans checkering. If the bores are not horribly pitted, and the walls check out (thickness) it can be back in service. Ducks and Geese, beware!

Does Breck Gorman have a website? A cursory internet search brings up other posts on here from people saying he does good work. Frankly I'd much rather pay someone with more skill and experience than me to clean this thing up, instead of risking effing it up if I try to do it myself.

Regardless, would cleaning just involve a lot of brash brushes, gun oil, and polish for the wood?

[edgarspencer]

Breck Gorman's work is not good, it's great.
breck.gorman@gmail.com
804-357-3404

Don't get within spitting distance of your gun with a hardware store screwdriver. Get a good set of proper, hollow ground, gunsmith quality tools from Midway or Brownells.

The stock just looks crud covered, but maybe not oil soaked. Try a cleaner like Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and conditioner. If that doesn't do it, I've used Murphy's Oil soap, and nothing coarser than 4/0 (0000) steel wool. I don't think they sell it anymore but Johnson's Preen, hardwood floor cleaner is excellent.

Brass brushes are soft enough that they won't scratch the metal surface, but the pinkie finger tea drinkers like Frontier pads; a stainless steel scrubbing pad (which is exactly what a Frontier pad is). Use it with Balistol, Hoppes #9, light machine oil; something like that.

A well respected gunsmith told me not to mention his name, but the metal parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, with diesel injector cleaner, will lift a lot of the minor rust (and other junk). Or, you can buy the cleaner they sell just for ultrasonic cleaners.

The bores will clean up a lot with a brass bore brush spun by a drill.

Lastly, FFS, be like a professional gun guy and go slow, real slow.

[Dean Hanson]

Gray, wonderful gun!! That beauty deserves a complete disassemble and cleaning. Not sure where you are at, but I would love the opportunity to clean that Parker. Edgar gives great tips. I am the pinkie finger tea drinker as I find Frontier pads to be far superior for cleaning metal inside and out... including barrels. Good luck with a worthy endeavor to bring that Parker back to its glory!

Be well, Dean

[edgarspencer]

Originally Posted by Dean H Hanson

I am the pinkie finger tea drinker as I find Frontier pads to be far superior for cleaning metal inside and out.

I've bought both. You be the judge.

Big-45 Frontier pads, $7.00ea Picture of gun on package
https://www.amazon.com/Big-45-Fronti...%2C1303&sr=8-1

Scotch Brite, $0.83 ea Picture of frying pan on package
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-...s%2C295&sr=8-5

[Bill Murphy]

If a PGCA letter (you should get one) specifies "No Checkering", you have a gun with a rare option. In that case, do not have the stock checkered. Breck Gorman may actually help you with more than just the barrels, I don't know.

[ArtS]

I like the frontier pads (Dean Romig's suggestion). Wrap them around a 16 or so gauge brush and scrub the bores with a cleaning oil. Does wonders.

You might want to remeasure your barrels. The book shows it as a 32" barrel, so certainly not cut but a 32-3/4" length seems really odd for a Parker. Check to see if you mis-measured.

Final comment is that from the appearance of the bottom plate screw, I am confident that the gun has never been apart. That can be good and bad. I bought a gun of somewhat the same vintage and it looked in very good shape, but after working on it two weeks; nothing. The top tang screw would simply not come out. And I work on a lot of guns and have had two good gunsmiths over the years show me a lot of tricks. I had drill the screw head out, drop the trigger plate, soak for another week and clamp on with vice grips on the shank and finally backed it out. Be careful working on it.

[Breck Gorman]

What has happened to the extractor? Looks split. Maybe it’s the photo, but doesn’t look right.
You will need an authentic hammer screw to replace the Home Depot screw and lock washer. I have one.
What is curious to me is that the engraving looks grade 2, but the barrel flats are stamped “DD”, which indicates 6 iron Turkish Crolle, a fine Damascus pattern reserved for grade 4+ guns
You have a nice gun worthy of some attention.