Opinions please

[MD*GSP]

Assuming proper & professional execution; does the value of a Parker Shotgun with ejectors take a hit following a modification that adds an ejector stop-screw to the lug of a barrel in order to further protect the ejector stop plate and its dovetail from damage over time?

[Dean Romig]

Hmm.... I think if it is in otherwise excellent 'collector' condition, I think such a modification would affect the value slightly to the negative side.
If it is just an average shooter, it wouldn't affect it much - other than potential buyers possibly wondering, "What was wrong with the gun to necessitate this modification?"





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[Wild Skies]

If I were a buyer and had my choice of two guns, one with the modification, the other without, but otherwise identical in grade, configuration, condition and price; I'd choose the gun without the modification every time.

[MD*GSP]

Thank you gentlemen - I do understand there are variables that would sway an opinion one way or the other. (e.g., condition, collectibility, etc)

I don't think it'd bother me a bit provided the integrity of the rods themselves hadn't been compromised and the appropriate materials had been used. Trouble is, especially on a new, collectible, or high condition pc - inspection of the rods would require some degree of disassembly, albeit minor. I wouldn't be very keen to that.

[DoubleOframe]

The issue of the ejector stop plate and screw breaking in the dolls head is more prevalent on the reproductions than on original Parker ejector guns. I think most collectors would agree its a sin to modify any high condition vintage firearm unless the mod is 100% necessary, ie due to a safety issue or because something is actually broken.

[MD*GSP]

Thanks Channing. I can't speak to the propensity of a Reproduction to suffer damage vs an original or Remington era Parker. That's b/c I've only handled/shot Parkers owned by friends. Further, I've only inspected them to the extent one can at shows etc. Obviously, that's a far cry from owning & caring for one. Let me clear something up though. I'm not referring to a screw breaking. I'm referring to the dovetail becoming worn which can lead to movement of the stop plate. Once the plate starts moving, at all, the dovetail can begin to wear rapidly. I know the proper care of ejectors is to ensure snap caps are in place when opening the gun so the ejectors don't smack the plate with full force behind them.

I haven't got one of my Repro's in front of me but from memory, the screw securing the stop plate only limits up/down movement. I don't recall it being a captive screw. It's the fit of the plate in its dovetail that secures the plate. If it becomes loose, you're only left with one option and that's to start peening the dovetail back into shape against the plate or disrupt material on the plate itself so that it's snug. That sucks.

[Bill Murphy]

The only need for snap caps is for those who dry fire their guns. As far as the screw in the lug goes, that's the way they should have been made when they were new. I would possibly use a fat nylon screw with a flat cut for the recess in the ejector. With careful use, this system could last forever.

[MD*GSP]

Finally! Someone who's got their head screwed on straight!!

I kid

I completely agree Bill. Don't get me wrong, I'm very fond of the intricate design of the stop plate/dovetail but, it's as though an obvious small machining step was just flat-out missed or completely ignored altogether.

I've solicited opinion b/c I have a 28ga that's not suffered damage but if I don't take an action and do the mod..a problem's going to develop b/c the stop plate's slightly loose. I like proactive.

I've thought of two ways to approach it. The first doesn't involve modification to the ejector rods at all. A screw with a nylon tip that rides over top the ejector rods as they are and without a slot cut into them just might be enough to slow the ejectors down and avoid damage. The nicety of this concept is that the tension upon the rods would be adjustable, and so would the strength of the ejectors. I've decided against that mod though b/c it's ultimately nothing more than a band-aid and, I like good strong ejectors on a gun so equipped.

Instead, I've decided to go forward with cutting a slot into the ejector rods but I don't want to machine it with a standard e-mill because that'll leave sharp ninety-degree corners and I'm concerned that'll create a weak spot right where the ejector rods will slap up against the screw-stop that I've made, and break. I'm going to mill the slot with a ball e-mill and that will do two things for me. First, no sharp corners/weak geometry. Second, I can cut the slot along the axis of the rods and forego finishing the slot side to side which will leave me with a radiused pocket that will match the diameter of the pin at the end of my stop screw that's going through the lug. The nice thing about that is the large amount of surface area, where it counts, because the stop screw will be machined to fit the rounded end of the ejector slot perfectly, nesting into it. That will allow the use a brass screw which makes me feel much better than a hardened screw or something harder than the ejector rod material. The large amount of surface area between mating parts will ensure the brass maintains integrity w/out getting beat out of shape due to the constant pounding it'll take from the ejector springs. It should be a permanent fix and I'll feel better knowing the screw is the sacrificial component in the system while offering the greatest protection to the rods through good design. If, for some reason, the brass just doesn't hold up, I'll use some mild steel. Aluminum in a gun, no thanks.

Stay tuned..I might be making up some ejector rods from billet material by the time this projects been completed..