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02-23-2010, 09:37 PM | #3 | ||||||
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I used "Zip-Strip" (nasty stuff) and it took several applications and plenty of elbow grease. You'll want to recut the checkering too. Here's an after picture of my oil refinished 28 ga Repro., followed by the before view with the original Urethane finish.
Joe |
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02-23-2010, 11:02 PM | #4 | ||||||
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I use "Citrustrip" Stripping Gel from W.M. Barr & Co.
Very effective. No need to recut checkering if you use a toothbrush in the checkering as a final precedure when the gel is still wet. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
02-24-2010, 12:22 AM | #5 | ||||||
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I've had good luck (provided plenty of elbow grease) with "Klean Strip" Aircraft Paint Remover. It takes a few few coats and attention to detail but it works.
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02-24-2010, 12:32 AM | #6 | ||||||
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One more picture of oil finished repro.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Fuller For Your Post: |
02-24-2010, 01:23 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Your stocks look so so good, they look like a Purdy finish. On of mine has a cloudy look underneath the finish and makes it look real cheap. I will try the products suggested. I paid $75.00 the last time to get the plastic off a Beretta.
Thanks Pat |
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02-24-2010, 02:47 PM | #8 | ||||||
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I'm very happy with mine. Its a lot of work but the results speak for themselves. I finished the Repro above with Watco Marine oil and paste wax which I think provides a great water proof finish, a pleasing satin-like luster and seals up the joints where the metal meets the wood.
Same finish works on the older models as well. |
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02-24-2010, 02:57 PM | #9 | ||||||
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Marine Oil? Is that an oil one would use on natural teak?
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02-24-2010, 05:11 PM | #10 | ||||||
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Yes, the one in the light blue can.
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