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09-20-2023, 08:33 PM | #3 | ||||||
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For future use, you can do this yourself. I learned by watching a couple of YouTube videos; buying a few trashed-out screwdrivers at yard sales and fitting them myself. IMHO the real key is to pay attention to fit first, then heat treating second. For all but the most mangled bits, forget about grinding wheels and learn to use 2-3 medium to fine flat files. Practice on the most trashed-out drivers first. Once you achieve the precise fit, pay close attention to tempering and cooling. This will ensure that you won't break off any bits on engraved screws, the ultimate bummer! I have successfully ground and filed a couple of old Sears Craftsman drivers to fit the ultra-thin and fine screws of the Browning Superposed trigger guards and forends. White knuckle, yes, but learn by doing and proceed with caution. There is great satisfaction in fitting your own turnscrews to a particular gun. Should also add I did it to one to fit most of the screws on my 1897 AH Grade 16 gauge 0-frame Parker. As the Germans say, "Keine Angst!"
Last edited by Kevin McCormack; 09-20-2023 at 08:37 PM.. Reason: add language |
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09-20-2023, 10:32 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Buy the complete set from Brownells, also the additional thin blade set, and the Browning A5 set (handle plus five extra-thin tips) and you will always have what you need and no buggered screws due to not having the correct one (but doesn't mean you can't still bugger the screw). I know.
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The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
09-21-2023, 12:41 AM | #5 | ||||||
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Easy answer: As Jerry says, Brownells set. No one tops that in my book
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Richard Flanders For Your Post: |
09-21-2023, 08:26 AM | #6 | ||||||
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Dont be surprised if the hammer does not come off after you remove that screw.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
09-21-2023, 10:35 AM | #7 | ||||||
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Do what you want but considering the high condition of that gun, I'd clean underneath that hammer without removing anything. It's possible you might damage something and that hammer is a wedge fit on the axle(?). Every time it gets removed and replaced the potential for it to get loose increases.
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The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to George Stanton For Your Post: |
09-21-2023, 01:00 PM | #8 | |||||||
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Quote:
Thank you George!
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Phlebas the Phoenician, a fortnight dead, forgot the cry of gulls, and the deep sea swell and the profit and loss. A current under sea picked his bones in whispers. As he rose and fell he passed the stages of his age and youth entering the whirlpool. T.S. Eliot |
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The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to Bruce P Bruner For Your Post: |
09-22-2023, 01:33 PM | #9 | ||||||
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Just for future reference, the Brownells set and the extra thin blade set will handle most situations. Dan Rositter advised me to get a couple sets of the Grace hollow ground with the wooden handles. He said use one as is and if you need a special width driver to grind one from the second set on a drill press with a hard Dremel stone. It works slicker than goose dookie.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Mike Koneski For Your Post: |
09-25-2023, 11:30 AM | #10 | ||||||
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A couple of tips from over here:
When I look at screwdrivers at yard sales, I look for wooden handles, though there are some good ones with plastic handles. (usually not clear or see thru plastic) With estate sales, I can usually tell by taking a glance around the garage/workshop area if the previous owner believed in high quality tools. If so, look deep. Also, solvent and compressed air can work wonders. Gloves and eye protection, of course. |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to todd allen For Your Post: |
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