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buffer wad "pistoning"
I just loaded a bunch of 10 gauge black powder loads in RMC brass cases and noticed an interesting phenomenon. The buffer wads are heavy, lubricated wads of 3/8" to 1/2" thickness, and in a few cases I noticed that they were bottoming out but then retracting at least 1/8". In other words, they were tight enough to compress the air below them and then open up after the pressure from the tool was released. Like air-tight "pistons." The tool definitely bottoms out, hard, but then the wad backs out. You hit it again with the tool and it squishes down.
In the remaining loads I jammed a surgeon's scalpel down the center of the buffer wad to create an air path, and there were no problems. I checked the prior loads (hadn't yet glued in the over-shot card) and had to re-do 3-4 shells with this problem (if it's a problem). Given all the concern about air gaps over black powder, I just thought I'd mention that. I don't know how important this is, but in the absence of more information I figure it's better to be "safe than sorry." Perhaps I'm using a buffer wad that's too big for the RMC shells? |
Normal extruded brass hulls require a size larger wad ie: 11 gauge wad in a 12 gauge hull. With RMC's turned 10 gauge brass you would use a 10 gauge wad. Who did you get your wads from?
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Correction: Circle Fly. Somebody suggested warming them a bit before loading. The lube was quite firm and waxy. |
i too have run into the problem you have...making a airway is good medicene... charlie
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It's something you'll have to put up with. When loading muzzleloading shotguns the wads must be reseated because of compressing the air. I used to push the wad down fast and let go of the ram rod and it would jump back up almost out of the barrel. It would take another push or two to make sure the wad was seated. Then kind of throw the rod hard back down the last couple of inches and make it bounce. I never noticed it with brass shells but my wads were probably not as tight as your wads. Your first over powder wad should be the one that is the tightest. It's a hard card about .140- then your buffer wad [ or cushion wads as I call them ] . You are useing an overshot wad aren't you ? Any ways, just reseat your wads a couple of times before you put in the shot - you don't have to cut them. Good luck - Paul
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http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...omponents2.jpg I did fire the shells, and they worked perfectly. What a blast! http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...ame/shoot1.jpg |
Sorry I didn't get back sooner - PC broke. Nice picture - no, you're doing it right. And yes, you want the wads down tight on the powder - no air gap. I get all my wads from Circlefly. I wouldn't cut or put any kind of hole in the wads to let pressure leak through, you'd be defeating the purpose of tight wads. You'll just have to reseat the wads. Years back my friend was sighting in a 72 cal ML rifle. He had just seated the ball and had to leave for a minute or two. He left the ram rod down the barrel so when he came back he knew where he was in reloading. When he returned the ram rod was about 8" back up the barrel. He reseated and shot the gun. Reloaded again , sat down and shortly thereafter watched the ram rod slowly come back up the barrel. This was back in the 70's and some fellows had blew up ML rifles that were written up in national magagines. Guess that explained why. My friend was reloading with the hammer on the nipple - the compressed air had no where to go. Maybe this explained why some guns blew up. Not saying this would happen with your shotgun shells , but you shouldn't leave any air gap between the powder and wads. Paul
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