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Fore arm repair, Accraglass?
Is Accraglass gel still recommended for repairing cracks/breaks in wood?
This is not on a Parker, but an old Marlin model 90 16 ga with DT. Fore arm broke in half when I shot a pheasant with it, had previously been repaired. Split is length wise. |
I have used both and prefer the thinner. I repaired an old forend from a pump action just to see what it would do. It was all I could do to break it pulling it apart. It broke but not where it was glued. I believe it is stronger than wood.
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Is epoxy better than Accraglass for this. Or even Gorilla glue
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Acraglass is epoxy. Gorilla glue would not be a good choice.
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I received a very early hammerless Parker years ago in two pieces with a failed gorilla glue repair at the head and checkering beginning of the stock.The gun was so nice otherwise I repaired it with acraglass and some hidden ss pins.Then I touched up the checkering and hid the repair with dark staining and refinished the stock.That 10 gauge still is together with its origional stock.
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Brian, do you prefer the regular accraglass or the gel type.
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Thank you Brian
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The most successful crack repair I have ever attempted was done with Titebond II. The wrist was badly cracked longitudinally. The crack is no longer visible and has held strong for some 8-9 years now.
Before: https://www.jpgbox.com/jpg/75416_800x600.jpg That crack is now no longer visible after gluing and a light sanded in refinish of the affected area. I bought the stock in the damaged condition from Bazil Slaughter to replace a target buttstock that came on my FAIR Verona LX692 28/410 combo. |
Considering the expansion of Gorilla Glue I’d think you’d be dealing with some pretty significant cleanup, etc., if you used it. Also IMHO the glue line would be very prevalent. That’s my experience when using it although I’ve never used it on a gunstock.
My nephew used Titebond on his A5 forend that broke in half but it didn’t hold. The last time I hunted with him his repair with black electrician’s tape was still holding :rotf: |
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