Intentional Stock Cracking
 

As mentioned on a previous post, my DH 12ga straight stock had no cast and a 3 1/16" drop. After a double steam bending session it now has 1/4" cast and 2 3/4" drop at the heel. This is still to much drop as my optimum drop seems to be anywhere between 2 1/2" to 2 1/4".

A friend told me of a famous stocker from Berlin, Wisconsin, who is now deceased, but apparently he would crack the stock in the wrist, through the checkering, and had a system of setting the stock to the proper measurements and then repaired the stock so completely the crack was not visible and the stock was actually stronger in the wrist area.

Tonight I found a stock man who is an experienced stock wood splicer and he is willing to do my stock, I just wondered if anyone else had tried this and if you were happy with outcome? Also did the stock have clean lines after the reset?

Thanks.

JMHO but I think I'd sell it and buy another that fit me better than to do that to a nice Parker.

The best things to come out of Berlin,WI are Russell boots.

Sounds like a fractured fairy tale to me.

Did the fellow's demise have anything to do with breaking some Parker owner's stock?

There is a way which is similar. A short or bad buttstock can be cut at the back end of the wrist by the checkering border and a new section spliced in. This is less expensive and saves the intricate and inletted head and wrist checkering. There are a few experts who do this and on the ones I've seen, the wood match is good , the splice line cannot be seen unless pointed out and you knew to look for it.

I would add a small pad to the top of the stock. One could also add wood to the top of the comb.

Comb Pads
 

I have used the comb pads on a number of stocks and find them very effective. In addition to raising your head they also provide releif from the comb smacking you in the cheek. And I prefer comfort to pain.

A word of caution. When you remove the pad do it very slowly and use a heat gun such as a hair dryer to release the glue from the wood. I carelessly removed a pad and pulled splinters from the top of the comb.

Another method is tape the pad on with black electrical tape. The tape holds the pad securely and does not damage the stock when removed. It also allows you to try the pad in different locations until you get it where you want it. Tom

Roger Giles used to make custom cheek pads from layers of cardboard and duct tape. I don't think he charged very much for it and I suppose if a person could borrow a pen from the local feed and grain store, he could draw woodgraining on the cardboard.

David Trevallion details what he calls a "Butt Transplant" in his book "Shotgun Technicana" where by he slices off the old butt in the rear of the checkering and splices in a complete new back end. The checkering hides the joint and you maintain the important part of the original stock including the stamped serial number. With this method you can create whatever dimensions you desire. I have seen examples of this in his shop and it is nearly impossible to detect even if you are looking for it.

Yes butt, given the significant cost of the butt splice and if I only needed a 1/4" , I think I would arrange an appointment with Roger Giles, custom stockmaker. Or just creep up on the stock another 1/2 " when I bring the gun up.

I've seen good shooters adapt to about any drop gun that they pick up. I have Parkers that range from 2" to 3" DAH and I shoot them all equally poorly.

Chuck's "Butt Transplant" tutorial, a pic of David's work, and one that went terribly wrong here
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/16839920